The third stage of the Speed WC will take place Friday in Wujiang. The fourth event, out of six, in the Bouldering WC 2019 starts on Saturday with semis and finals live-streamed on Saturday. Interesting is that Miho Nonaka does her first event in 2019 after being injured and that Adam Ondra is back from being sick but again he will not participate in Speed. Shauna Coxsey is missing again at the same time she reports on Insta that she trains hard back home. Friday 03th May: GMT + 8 19.00-20.00 Men & Women Speed Finals [LIVE] Sunday 04th May 09.30-11.45 Men & Women Bouldering Semi-finals [LIVE] 17.00-18.30 Women Bouldering Final [LIVE] 18.30-20.00 Men Bouldering Final [LIVE]

The #1 reason why your rope get twisted is when you are lowered down from an anchor with two fixed points on the same height. The longer the horizontal distance, the worse. When bolting an anchor with only rings, the bolts should not be placed on the same height. The idea for the article has come from a recent UKC article showing the opposite! If you want to tope rope in an anchor with the rings on the same height, you could place just one carabiner in one ring and a long quick draw in the other ring. There is no trick to avoid twisting the rope once you have cleaned the anchor if you not bring a tube and rappel down yourself. Further more, take your time to uncoil your rope coming from the factory a couple times as most of them come heavily twisted causing some 10 min frustration just when you want to start climbing.

Caroline Sinno, who previously has done three 8B traverses in Font, has done the FA of L'Insoutenable légèreté de l'autre, which was 8B before break in 2009. Then Nalle Hukkataival repeated it in 2011. "First ascent after the key undercling broke. 8B+ now?". Later one more important break before Caroline did a new FA after two months projecting it, including finding beta and giving it some 20 good tries. (c) Max Loison - (Check out the power in that three finger open crimp in a roof standing on very small foot holds!) "I cannot really tell how much harder it is because I didn’t try it back then but I guess it’s a lot harder and trickier because instead of changing hand on the lip of the arete you have to aim at a crack and change hands. It is weird as you cannot hold with all of your fingers because there is not enough space." It should be noted that Charles Albert has opened a more straight finish giving it 8B+, finishing in a harder mantle but less moves. "I can’t say my version is now 8B+ but it’s a solid 8B. I think it is harder than New Base Line, the only 8B+ I have experience off but Font standards are different."

Based on 1 300+ unique votes, Best Crash Pad? We can see that Organic continues to strengthen their #1 position. In brackets the 2016 result. 29 % Organic (22 % in 2016) 16 % Ocun (15) 11 % Black Diamond (13) 09 % Moon (10) 08 % Other (8) 04 % Petzl (5), Snap (5), Edelrid (5) 03 % MadRock (4), Asana (-), Mammut (3), Metolius (3) 02 % Pad (6)

Janja Garnbret, the Boulder WCH in 2018, got her fifth straight Boulder WC victory in Chongqing by winning all three rounds. Among the male, Manuel Cornu, #3 in the WCH in 2016, got his first WC win but it was a very close call as he won over Tomoa Narasaki with just one attempt to the zone. Further more, Tomoa made a false start on boulder #3. Add to that, Manuel was the last guy to qualify to the semifinal Top-20 by one attempt to the top. Adam Ondra still leads the WC even if he could not compete in China due to being sick. 1. Janja Garnbret SLO 44 - Manuel Cornu FRA 34 2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 44 - Tomoa Narasaki JPN 34 3. Jessica Pilz AUT 34 - Anze Peharc SLO 34 Complete results

Piotr Schab, who just the last year has done four 9a+', has done his first 9b Fight or Flight in Oliana. In the 8a ranking game, the Pole has been runner up after Adam Ondra for more than a year. (c) Wojtek Kozakiewicz "It means a lot. 9b was a dream and Fight or Flight was a real challenge. I’ve never climbed such an intense route, usually my hardest climbs were long and endurance - styled. I had to adapt to a faster style of climbing and take more risks than ever, but it was a great game. It took me 22 days in total, out of which 15 in 2018. Still have two more weeks in here so I hope to use them well and choose some projects for the upcoming trips."

Giuliano Cameroni did the FA of REM and Poision the Well in February. In the 8a ranking game, the 21 year old is #3. Now he is in Colorado for seven weeks, then Brazil and Rocklands. "I wanna climb as much as possible and take advantage of the chance I have to travel around the world. I will do my best to climb all the hard problems that I will try. Sykd!

Diego Fourbet has done the FA of a 9a extension to La Proue Debridee 8c+ in Roche de Rame which he did last year. Diego started climbing being three years old and since age six, he has been training with a club. More info on his Insta. The 16 year old is the son of the famous French climbing couple, Nathalie (ex-Richer) and Olivier Fourbet. "Antony Lamiche bolted the project six years ago. I spend six session on the route but the first part of the route is the same that a route I did last year. I have always traveled in Europe with my parents where I climb and boulder in different areas. Since I am 14 I study in a special class to climb more (CIE DE BRIANCONS).

Martin Stráník, #2 in the WCH in 2007, has done his seventh 8C, Drift in Moravský kras. Kateřina Stráník "So, that went quite fast, 2 days. Great addition by Adam, maybe just 8B+, but i spent quite a lot of time on this type of rock what makes moves easier."