1 May 2019

8B FA (+) in Font by Caroline Sinno

Caroline Sinno, who previously has done three 8B traverses in Font, has done the FA of L'Insoutenable légèreté de l'autre, which was 8B before break in 2009. Then Nalle Hukkataival repeated it in 2011. "First ascent after the key undercling broke. 8B+ now?". Later one more important break before Caroline did a new FA after two months projecting it, including finding beta and giving it some 20 good tries. (c) Max Loison - (Check out the power in that three finger open crimp in a roof standing on very small foot holds!) "I cannot really tell how much harder it is because I didn’t try it back then but I guess it’s a lot harder and trickier because instead of changing hand on the lip of the arete you have to aim at a crack and change hands. It is weird as you cannot hold with all of your fingers because there is not enough space." It should be noted that Charles Albert has opened a more straight finish giving it 8B+, finishing in a harder mantle but less moves. "I can’t say my version is now 8B+ but it’s a solid 8B. I think it is harder than New Base Line, the only 8B+ I have experience off but Font standards are different."
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