NEWS

No Pain no Game 9a+ by Jonatan Flor
Jonatan Flor, who previously has done two 9a's, reports on Insta that he has done Dani Fuertes' No Pain no Game 9a+ in Rodellar. (c) Ignacio Mulero The two times Spanish Bouldering Champion has also done several hard core boulders including Crisis 8C (+) in Crevillente. "It is a very demanding route. During the first attempts I did not understand many sequences of the route. It seemed very hard with a lot of resistance. It was a great challenge to try this route. For days I was deciphering and worked the route. As the days were passing, attempts were becoming better but a very hard section of resistance high up always threw me off. In the last attempts I did not know if I could do the route. It's an amazing line and being able to make it has been very satisfying."

UIAA has presented a map with known corrosion locations and interestingly almost all spots are crags very close to the sea.

Beyond 9a (+) FA by Seb Bouin
Seb Bouin has done the FA of Beyond 9a (+) in Pic Saint Loup where he previously has opened one 9a and one 9a+. "I hope, one day, there will be some guys motivated by these world class routes.โ€‹" (c) Raphael Fourau "This project Beyond is going straight in the most overhanging part of the crag until the top (50 meters). There is a first anchor. The first part (the one I did) is an incredible route. I was thinking the crux almost impossible at the beginning. It's almost roof climbing on bad crimps. After finding some micro betas for the first moves, it was missing me the last hard move to go on a good tufa. I was thinking to give up until I found the tufa dyno. This move is incredible, you are falling on the crimps, and you have to jump on this tufa. This route will be for sure a hard classic of Pic Saint Loup. About the grade it could be hard 9a, or 9a/+. Next repetitors will confirm it.โ€‹ About the second part of this route, there is a hard boulder problem straight after the first anchor. After four goes in, I am still not able to do the move."

Rรจveille-toi 9a FA by Laura Rogora (18)
Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a (8c+) Grandi Gesti being 14 years old, has done the FA of Rรจveille-toi 9a in Cueva di Collepardo. (c) Marco Iacono In total the 18 year old has done six routes 9a (8c+) or harder and as a matter of a fact, Anak Verhoeven is the only female who has done more. Two years ago, she was, within two weekends, #6 in the European Championship as well as in the Chamonix World Cup. Last year she won the Boulder Youth World Champions as well as three Euro Youth Cups in Lead.

Two 8A+' by Karoline Sinnhuber
karoline sinnhuber is back on track in bouldering after a finger injury she got three months ago with two 8A+'; Der Nihilist and El Gauhara in Zillertal. "1st go today after my 1st session a week ago. Shape is here again! I didn't take a rest after the injury happened, I just switched to routes because itโ€˜s not so aggressive for the fingers. I'm still not able to fullcrimp with my pointer. My other three fingers adapted to fullcrimp without it, but I donโ€˜t have 100% fingerpower. Due to my booked trip to Rocklands in July I started with my bouldering training again a month ago and adapted my Rocklands ticklist haha (no super crimpy boulders). (c) Stefan Welkhammer

220 youngsters up to 14 years old participated in the Youth Color Climbing Festival in Imst. Interesting is that Bulgaria was the best country and in general Eastern Europe dominated. Everyone climbed at least six routes and in the qualification the belayers were parents, coaches and friends. 12: Nina Hentschel SUI - Timo Ossig GER 14: Martina Bangeeva BUL - Andrei Rapa Darius ROU Complete reults

Headcrash 8c by Sarah Kampf (38)
Sarah Kamf (born Seeger) has done her sixth 8c, Headcrash in Frankenjura. Ten years ago she did her first 8c and when she had done three she had two children. Since 2017, this was her third 8c, all of them in Frankenjura (c) Markus Bauer "I tried Headcrash for the first time rather by coincidence as we were looking for a child friendly crag and ended up at a sector nearby. I was immediately psyched to try it as the line and moves are amazing. Due to work and family obligations I had to plan my sessions strategically and sometimes went there on my own. It was very enriching to experience full focus and tranquility during these sessions. I also had nice days with family or friends at the crag, making the whole journey full of contrasts between absolute silence and lively family routine. On the send day, we were there with the whole family and maybe that was the key to success - not being fully focused and thus not feeling pressure or nervosity at all." More info and pics on her Insta.

Circo total 9a FA by Jorge Diaz-Rullo
Jorge Diaz Rullo, who just did his first 9b, Planta de Shiva and two more 9a's in Villanueva del Rosario, has moved to Cuenca where he did the FA +f Circo total 9a. This is a link up in between Circo ibรฉrico 9a+ and Seta total 9a. Talo Martin helped out with follow up questions and Javi Pec with the picture. After having done four routes between 9a-9b's in 3 days, what will be next? I have many projects but overall I want to keep enjoying as I have been doing, and also I have vacations time now and many trips in my mind. Do you feel that this could be the beginning of your life as a professional climber? Yeah, I would like to hear that, live about climbing is a dream for every climber, but the truth is that here in Spain is very difficult ... So now I'll keep studying my career, training and climbing as I always do.

Quite frequently we get mails in regards questioned grades and ethics used by the top climbers. These guys always want to stay anonymous but they send them in, in order for the news to be correct. Take it with a pinch of salt but here they are. It should be noted that historically, when we get this type of news frequently, they are often down graded once the news is out. 9a: Papichulo 9a and Thors Hammer 8c+: Estado Critico 8c+, Era Vella, Underground, Cabane au Canada, Esclatamasters, Bain de Sang, Jungle Speed, La Reina Mora 8B+: The Big Island, Practice of the wild, Spray of Light 8B: The Never ending story, Golden shadow, Mooiste Meisie It should be mentioned that many of the above have previously been questioned. Further more, we sometimes receive info in regards climbers using bad ethics in regards onsight ethics or using too many crash pads etc. Normally we inform the climbers but clearly we do not publish such info as we expect it also sometimes come from "competitors".