3 June 2019
Beyond 9a (+) FA by Seb Bouin
Seb Bouin has done the FA of Beyond 9a (+) in Pic Saint Loup where he previously has opened one 9a and one 9a+. "I hope, one day, there will be some guys motivated by these world class routes.โ" (c) Raphael Fourau
"This project Beyond is going straight in the most overhanging part of the crag until the top (50 meters). There is a first anchor. The first part (the one I did) is an incredible route. I was thinking the crux almost impossible at the beginning. It's almost roof climbing on bad crimps. After finding some micro betas for the first moves, it was missing me the last hard move to go on a good tufa.
I was thinking to give up until I found the tufa dyno. This move is incredible, you are falling on the crimps, and you have to jump on this tufa. This route will be for sure a hard classic of Pic Saint Loup. About the grade it could be hard 9a, or 9a/+. Next repetitors will confirm it.โ
About the second part of this route, there is a hard boulder problem straight after the first anchor. After four goes in, I am still not able to do the move."
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