NEWS

Sweet neuf 9a+ by Cedric Lachat
Fanatic Climbing reports that Cedric Lachat has done the first repeat of Anak Verhoeven's Sweet neuf 9a+ in Pierrot Beach. (c) Simon Destombes "I did 7 sessions before the send. It was all the time a little bit wet and it caused me troubles. But I knew if I could send the 9a I will not fall in the second part in 8b. I climbed only 3 times in the extension and I knew it will be ok. Itโ€™s big moves on chipped holds, a stamina effort and Iโ€™m used to deal with these kind of routes." Cedric has previously done three 9a+ and some 20 routes graded 9a. The 35 year old has won two Lead WC's and in 2007 he was #3 in both the Lead and Boulder World Championship.

Two world class 8B+ (C)' by James Webb
James Webb, the #1 in the ranking game who has recorded 1 515 climbs in his scorecard, has done the FA of The Healing 8B+ in Cederberg. "Maybe the best line I've ever climbed? Massive thanks to Arjan and Keen for the support!" (c) Keenan Takahashi More info on Jimmy's latest Insta, starting with, "Finally back in my favorite place on earth. ZA" He has also already have had time to do Black Eagle assis in Rocklands giving it a personal 8B+ grade. Jimmy is the top boulderer in the world, like Adam Ondra for routes, that gives most personal grades and some of his FAs have been upgraded.

Delirium 8C by Matt Fultz
Matt Fultz has done his third 8C Delirium in Lincoln Lake in "two short attempts", said by Sam Weir who made the video. Until three months ago, the 28 year old had not done any 8C and clearly his trend diagram is very promising to say the least.

Move 9b/+ by Seb Bouin
Seb Bouin reports on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's Move 9b/+ in Flatanger. This was his 13th route 9a+ and harder making that track record one of the Top-10 ever. "I belayed Adam Ondra during his first ascent in 2013. And now it's my turn. I started working this route in 2016 - 2017. I have to be a bit crazy to believe success is possible after such a long time in the route but finally it's done. I did five travels (2 - 3 weeks each travels) to do this route, out of which four alone. This means I start alone from France and I try to find a partner at the crag. It's quite hard mentally to do that. Because you have the pressure of the route during the trip, but you are alone, so no control. This is also superb opportunity to meet people and share your passion and emotions with. I learnt a lot during this journey, about myself, about injuries, about pressure, about climbing, and about life. That's why doing this route is the ice of the cake. Move is one of the hardest route in the world, but that was not my first motivation. I choose this route because it's a MEGA LINE, it's hard and beautiful, and I was inspired. About the grade. It's the hardest route I did at the moment. I have no experience in 9b+ grades. So It could be easy 9b+ (Adam was thinking 9b+ but said 9b/+ because this route it's not so much his style) or super hard 9b. I think the 9b/+ grade could be the good one. Let see with the next repetitor thinks. Now it's time toโ€ฆ. check another project. The one to the right looks like a good one!!! It's called "Silence"...."

Blade Runner 8C FA by Giuliano Cameroni
Giuliano Cameroni, who put up two 8C+' in February, has done his tenth 8C, Blade Runner in RMNP. "Beautiful problem on the green 45! Starts like Donโ€™t get too greedy and crosses the whole wall to finish into Jade. Technical and conditions depending. Took me two sessions but felt harder than the other problems Iโ€™ve done here, so low end (or slash grade) seems appropriate. Now the Swizz is in Brazil for three weeks with Daniel Woods and Shawn Raboutou and tomorrow they will try Felipe Camargo's Fortaleza 8C. Then Giuliano will go to SA for two months. In the 8a ranking game, he is currently #3 needing one more 8C to be #1.

Gold Rush 8B FA by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus has done the FA of Gold Rush 8B in Coal Creek meaning that she has now done 23 boulders 8B and harder. In the 8A ranking game she is #1. "Started on Pay dirt and finished on the Ashima trav. Has a hard sequence to get to the jug (v11/v12), then you have a V10 to do. I tried this a couple years ago and didn't find a way, and thought it would be awkward even if I did.. but this year I finally did the ashima trav with the new master beta, and then decided to see if I could link from Pay dirt. I found a really fun sequence and got psyched, did it my next day at the boulder. I think my method is V13, well see how it turns out in the end. Fun climbing!!"

Super Finale 9a by Samuel Ometz
Samuel Ometz has done Super Finale 9a in Rawyl in just eight goes."Good route with boulder problems separated by good rests! Good consolation prize after not finishing my spring proj."