NEWS

Blade Runner 8C FA by Giuliano Cameroni
Giuliano Cameroni, who put up two 8C+' in February, has done his tenth 8C, Blade Runner in RMNP. "Beautiful problem on the green 45! Starts like Donโ€™t get too greedy and crosses the whole wall to finish into Jade. Technical and conditions depending. Took me two sessions but felt harder than the other problems Iโ€™ve done here, so low end (or slash grade) seems appropriate. Now the Swizz is in Brazil for three weeks with Daniel Woods and Shawn Raboutou and tomorrow they will try Felipe Camargo's Fortaleza 8C. Then Giuliano will go to SA for two months. In the 8a ranking game, he is currently #3 needing one more 8C to be #1.

Delirium 8C by Matt Fultz
Matt Fultz has done his third 8C Delirium in Lincoln Lake in "two short attempts", said by Sam Weir who made the video. Until three months ago, the 28 year old had not done any 8C and clearly his trend diagram is very promising to say the least.

Move 9b/+ by Seb Bouin
Seb Bouin reports on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's Move 9b/+ in Flatanger. This was his 13th route 9a+ and harder making that track record one of the Top-10 ever. "I belayed Adam Ondra during his first ascent in 2013. And now it's my turn. I started working this route in 2016 - 2017. I have to be a bit crazy to believe success is possible after such a long time in the route but finally it's done. I did five travels (2 - 3 weeks each travels) to do this route, out of which four alone. This means I start alone from France and I try to find a partner at the crag. It's quite hard mentally to do that. Because you have the pressure of the route during the trip, but you are alone, so no control. This is also superb opportunity to meet people and share your passion and emotions with. I learnt a lot during this journey, about myself, about injuries, about pressure, about climbing, and about life. That's why doing this route is the ice of the cake. Move is one of the hardest route in the world, but that was not my first motivation. I choose this route because it's a MEGA LINE, it's hard and beautiful, and I was inspired. About the grade. It's the hardest route I did at the moment. I have no experience in 9b+ grades. So It could be easy 9b+ (Adam was thinking 9b+ but said 9b/+ because this route it's not so much his style) or super hard 9b. I think the 9b/+ grade could be the good one. Let see with the next repetitor thinks. Now it's time toโ€ฆ. check another project. The one to the right looks like a good one!!! It's called "Silence"...."

Super Finale 9a by Samuel Ometz
Samuel Ometz has done Super Finale 9a in Rawyl in just eight goes."Good route with boulder problems separated by good rests! Good consolation prize after not finishing my spring proj."

Gold Rush 8B FA by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus has done the FA of Gold Rush 8B in Coal Creek meaning that she has now done 23 boulders 8B and harder. In the 8A ranking game she is #1. "Started on Pay dirt and finished on the Ashima trav. Has a hard sequence to get to the jug (v11/v12), then you have a V10 to do. I tried this a couple years ago and didn't find a way, and thought it would be awkward even if I did.. but this year I finally did the ashima trav with the new master beta, and then decided to see if I could link from Pay dirt. I found a really fun sequence and got psyched, did it my next day at the boulder. I think my method is V13, well see how it turns out in the end. Fun climbing!!"

Selah Schneiter (10) climbs The Nose - 950 meters
Selah Schneiter (10) has climbed the iconic 31 pitches The Nose in Yosemite in a five-day push together with her father Mike and Mark Reiger. She led a couple of pitches and cleaned about 80% of the pitches. The 132 cm tall and 27 kg says, "The hardest part was hiking to the base and hiking down. Big, heavy loads." She says there wasnโ€™t a most fun part that it was all fun. She loved cleaning pitches, doing lower outs, spending the nights on the wall and checking out the free climbing on pitches like changing corners. Mike, who runs and owns Glenwood Climbing Guides, continues. "Selah started climbing as soon as she could walk. Even before she could walk she would be crawling and climbing on boulders. Iโ€™ve done the Nose in a day a couple times and many other walls on El Cap and elsewhere. My daughter did a lot of training in western Colorado for years including lead climbing, multi pitch, leading multi pitch and doing aid climbs and small practice big walls. She started climbing on a rope when she was 18 months. Sheโ€™s always been into it and climbs a to,on our indoor home garage wall and outside with me. As a climbing guide Iโ€™ve spent a lot of time climbing with her and our other kids and have tried to teach her best practices so hence, she is incredibly competent and often more competent than other climbers who are much older. Sheโ€™s pretty dialed with what sheโ€™s learned."

Battle Cat 8c makes Solveig Korherr #1 in the ranking game
Solveig Korherr has done her second 8c, Battle Cat in Frankenjura in just four tries over two days. Including also Cringer 8b+ second go, two weeks ago, the 20-year-old is the new ranking game #1. (c) Dorothea Karalus โ€This iconic line in Franken has always been a dream of mine. I was surprised to find that it was so attainable after my first go up it. I guess all the hard hours of training are really paying off. Iโ€˜m going to Spain to Rodellar and Norway this summer. I will go to Flatanger and then Lofoten to try some trad climbing for the first time.โ€