Alizée Dufraisse has done Ray of Light which is her third 8B in Rocklands the last twelve months. More info to come. Allizée won the Youth World Champion in 2003. In 2004 she started pole vaulting and in 2008 she was the French Champion at 4.35 but missed the Olympic games. Then back to climbing comps again where she was #3 in a Lead WC in 2009 when she won in Bouldering in Arco Rock Master. Including two 9a's etc, she is #2 in the 8a All Time ranking game, meaning she should be considered Top-10 of all female sport climbers in the history.

For some reason, most athletes in the Speed qualifications climbed slower than in Villars last week. Fastest among the high ranked female Lead and Boulder specialists was Futaba Ito at 9.39. Among the male, Tomoa Narasaki was fastest among the best high ranked Combined climbers at 6.51. Interesting is Adam Ondra's 8.01 which can be compared with his 9.32 in his first ever Speed event during WCH in Innsbruck last year. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

In February, R & I published and open letter saying The chipping in Ten Sleep needs to stop. As a matter of a fact, the extensive chipping carried out by Louie Anderson and others, had stopped almost one year before the open letter was published. Louie has also said it was wrong to chip and he regretted to do so. Now Louie has reported on Facebook. "On the nights of July 1st and 2nd, a group of climbers from Wyoming and elsewhere decided to remove some of my routes. Dozens of routes have been affected and have either removed bolts, filled in pockets, smashed holds, or some combination of all of these. There are also several routes that have spray painted red padlocks attached to the first bolts to act as a notice to climbers that they may be getting on a route that potentially has modified holds." Here is a Statement on behalf of the guys who chopped bolts, filled in pockets and put a red locker on some of the first bolts. It should be mentioned that 8a think chipping is totally wrong and as a matter of a fact in the scorecard you can mark routes as "chipped" in order to warn others. Further more, we hope this will make future equippers stop chipping in order to officially have opened a chipped route. A further step would be for topo producers to actually mark chipped routes in their guide books. Personally I have hard time understanding why R & I published this letter in the first place asking for chipping to stop as it had already been stopped one year ago. Further more, I think it is wrong that sabotage existing routes like this. There exist thousands and thousands chipped routes in the world also up to 9a grade etc. If this chopping practice would spread it would be very bad for the climbing community.

Loic Zehani has done his seventh 9a FA, La grande vadrouille in Gargantua. "In total there are 90 movements in roof and big overhang. The finish is hard and more crimpy in overhang too. The first part is a 8b+ in a roof very physical and stamina (45 movements) after that you have a hard section with shoulder boulder moves. Here you have done an 8c+. After a physical rest you have a last hard section with crimps in the end of the overhang. It's hard to not fall after all the energy you left before… It's in fact the connection between 3 routes; Dégenéréscence / Uncle spit/ Gargantuesque, but it's very logical and cool line."

Thursday: Speed qualification Friday: Lead qualification and Speed Finals 21.00 Saturday: 10.00-12.30 Men & Women Lead Semi-finals [LIVE] 20.50-21.30 Women Lead Final [LIVE] 21.50-22.35 Men Lead Final [LIVE]

Herman Engbers, a former IFSC judge, confirms that there was a mistake of the scoring for Natsuki Tanii in Villars. Engbers suggested a "Duohold" solutions for situations like when two holds can be considered equal along the line of the route. Since 2010 the Duoholds rule is included in the IFSC rule.

Alex Puccio has done Ground control 8A+ in Mt Evans as well as repeated Isabelle Faus' Gold Rush 8B in Coal Creek. "Thank you Fausey and Chad for inviting us up to climb and showing another cool boulder! :) Harder V12 or soft 8B. Breaks down to a V6/7 to a V11 to a V9. Really fun traverse. :)" (c) Cameron Maier Alex has now done 94 boulders 8A+ to 8B+,out of which 14 the last twelve months. The runner up in the World Championship in 2014 is #2 in the ranking game after Fausey.