11 July 2019

Extensive chopping and sabotage in Ten Sleep

In February, R & I published and open letter saying The chipping in Ten Sleep needs to stop. As a matter of a fact, the extensive chipping carried out by Louie Anderson and others, had stopped almost one year before the open letter was published. Louie has also said it was wrong to chip and he regretted to do so. Now Louie has reported on Facebook. "On the nights of July 1st and 2nd, a group of climbers from Wyoming and elsewhere decided to remove some of my routes. Dozens of routes have been affected and have either removed bolts, filled in pockets, smashed holds, or some combination of all of these. There are also several routes that have spray painted red padlocks attached to the first bolts to act as a notice to climbers that they may be getting on a route that potentially has modified holds." Here is a Statement on behalf of the guys who chopped bolts, filled in pockets and put a red locker on some of the first bolts. It should be mentioned that 8a think chipping is totally wrong and as a matter of a fact in the scorecard you can mark routes as "chipped" in order to warn others. Further more, we hope this will make future equippers stop chipping in order to officially have opened a chipped route. A further step would be for topo producers to actually mark chipped routes in their guide books. Personally I have hard time understanding why R & I published this letter in the first place asking for chipping to stop as it had already been stopped one year ago. Further more, I think it is wrong that sabotage existing routes like this. There exist thousands and thousands chipped routes in the world also up to 9a grade etc. If this chopping practice would spread it would be very bad for the climbing community.
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