Dave Graham reports on Insta of a new amazing 25-mover FA in Rocklands, Deaf Leopard 8B+. " Felt pretty damn hard for me with my sequence, seemingly a notch above other problems of the same grade here in Rocklands, but with so many options for potential new beta that could arise, its a tricky one to grade."

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Ett inlägg delat av Dave Graham (@dave_graham_) 3 Aug 2019 kl. 11:16 PDT

Cathy Wagner has done her first 7c+ for eight years, Jalabi in San Roque. The 54 year old is famous for having done 731 routes 8a and harder which is more than any other female. If she would have taken part in the Age and Gender bonus ranking, she would have been #2 after Adam Ondra.

Climbing and especially onsight is often about thinking and analyzing. However, for most of us this mental approach is often an disadvantage as you end up feeling and trying out every hold and soon you start to think negatively. Instead it is often better to stop thinking and climb like a robot and have a physical approach. Redpointing is about programming your brain and body to just move. Grab the next chalked hold and start moving upwards sometimes you can do the impossible! Robot climbing will also make you feel more adrenaline as a human being. It will make you fight more instead of saying "Take", as your brain has analyzed that the next move is to hard. Article from 2010 relates to Adam Ondra mental training.

Stefan Scarperi has done his first 8C, Noise vs beauty. "Did it in one session! Fits really my style! New beta with the jump!". He also reported on his Insta that Gabri Moroni did it. The Italian is a former competition climber who was #3 in the European Championship in 2015. On the picture by Peter Plant he does Amandla 8B+ also in just one session. Video #2 from Rocklands

00: Nolwenn Arc FRA - Stefan Scherz AUT 02: Nika Potapova UKR - Alberto Gines ESP 04: Aleksandra Totkova BUL - Gergö Valyi HUN Complete results France was the best country and surprisingly, Austria struggled in the two youngest categories where instead minor not with a big climbing history were best. Slovenia did also get good results as usual.

Red Bull has presented the great video Age of Ondra - "Adam Ondra is the best climber in the world by far... Like, he's a lot better than everybody else" - Alex Honnold

Ema Seliškar, who did her first 8c+ two months ago, has done Kmečka malca-Butnskala 8c in Kotecnik in just one session. The Slovenian has been #5 in both a Lead and Boulder Euro Youth Cup this summer. "I am so happy that I could climb it and can't wait for the upcoming comp in Arco (Youth World Championship) to show my best form and than for trip to Spain to find some new projects.”

Mathieu Bouyoud has done his tenth 9a FA, La récré dominicale in La Balme. In total, the French has done 21 routes 9a and harder and he is #6 in the 8a ranking game. "I bolted "La récré dominicale" 4 years ago. I try for the first time this long roof last year. I finish the job this year! The first part is one 8c "dissidence". It's a 20 meter extension."