Climbing and especially onsight is often about thinking and analyzing. However, for most of us this mental approach is often an disadvantage as you end up feeling and trying out every hold and soon you start to think negatively. Instead it is often better to stop thinking and climb like a robot and have a physical approach. Redpointing is about programming your brain and body to just move. Grab the next chalked hold and start moving upwards sometimes you can do the impossible! Robot climbing will also make you feel more adrenaline as a human being. It will make you fight more instead of saying "Take", as your brain has analyzed that the next move is to hard. Article from 2010 relates to Adam Ondra mental training.

Stefan Scarperi has done his first 8C, Noise vs beauty. "Did it in one session! Fits really my style! New beta with the jump!". He also reported on his Insta that Gabri Moroni did it. The Italian is a former competition climber who was #3 in the European Championship in 2015. On the picture by Peter Plant he does Amandla 8B+ also in just one session. Video #2 from Rocklands

00: Nolwenn Arc FRA - Stefan Scherz AUT 02: Nika Potapova UKR - Alberto Gines ESP 04: Aleksandra Totkova BUL - Gergö Valyi HUN Complete results France was the best country and surprisingly, Austria struggled in the two youngest categories where instead minor not with a big climbing history were best. Slovenia did also get good results as usual.

Red Bull has presented the great video Age of Ondra - "Adam Ondra is the best climber in the world by far... Like, he's a lot better than everybody else" - Alex Honnold

Ema Seliškar, who did her first 8c+ two months ago, has done Kmečka malca-Butnskala 8c in Kotecnik in just one session. The Slovenian has been #5 in both a Lead and Boulder Euro Youth Cup this summer. "I am so happy that I could climb it and can't wait for the upcoming comp in Arco (Youth World Championship) to show my best form and than for trip to Spain to find some new projects.”

Mathieu Bouyoud has done his tenth 9a FA, La récré dominicale in La Balme. In total, the French has done 21 routes 9a and harder and he is #6 in the 8a ranking game. "I bolted "La récré dominicale" 4 years ago. I try for the first time this long roof last year. I finish the job this year! The first part is one 8c "dissidence". It's a 20 meter extension."

hugo parmentier, who was #43 in the last Lead WC, has done his first 9a+, La moustache qui fâche in Entraygues. (c) Jan Novak "I have spent 6 days on it and 15 goes. It was my goal for this summer. The route is short and powerful. I really love this kind of style. I spent some days working on it with hardcore heat. Then with cooler temps it went. Yeahhh! For the end of the summer I need to find a multipitch/bouldering or single pitch project or maybe a bit of all, we'll see. Then in September some bouldering in Fontainebleau!"

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done his second 9b, Alihulk extensión total sit start in Rodellar. "Undoubtedly a real fight of those who leave you empty. Many thanks to everyone in the area and to Jonatan (Flor) for the methods that took a lot of tries! It has been amazing! 1st rep after Jonatan and 4 days of work this year." The 19 year old is #3 in the route ranking and in the Combined ranking, he is a superior #1. (c) Javi Pec

Speed and a Lead/Bouldering Combination have been provisionally included in Paris 2024. Here is the results of a poll, "Which two set of medals in 2014?", including some 900 unique respondents.The results shows very strongly that the 8a climbing community is in favor of skipping Speed and instead give the two set of medals to Lead & Bouldering. Which two set of medals in Paris 2024? 87 % Lead & Bouldering 11 % Speed & Lead/Bouldering Combined - as suggested by IFSC 01 % Bouldering & Speed 01 % Lead & Speed