Janja Garnbret, who two days ago become the Boulder World Champion, was once again ahead of the others but it was not until she understood that her friend Mia Krampl got the silver the tension let go and she started to celebrate. Then the commentators started to talk about her amazing competition stats for the 20 year old and having totally dominated the scene for four years. During several minutes they continued to give her credit in every possible with comments like, "there is no limit what she can do but we have to remember that she is still human..." (c) (c) Vladek Zumr This is the fourth time Janja has won a Lead WCH, although being just 20 years old. 1. Janja Garnbret SLO 2. Mia Krampl SLO 3. Ai Mori (15) JPN 4. Chaehyon Seo (15) KOR 5. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 6. Jessica Pilz AUT 7. Vita Lukan SLO 8. Julia Chanourdie FRA Complete results

"I feel lucky that I win", Adam Ondra taking about Alex Megos mistake midways up the very hard route. Adam further more said he was very tired after the Bouder final and could not understand how he could grab the last hold which eventually made him win. Adam has now got a medal in seventh consecutive Lead WCH, out of which three golds. (c) Vladek Zumr 1. Adam Ondra CZE 2. Alex Megos GER 3. Jakob Schubert AUT 4. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 5. Sean McColl CAN 6. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 7. Kai Harada JPN 8. Hannes Puman SWE Complete results

Adam Ondra had won the semi final after having done the first three boulders in good style actually finding two no hands rest. The last boulder he only gave two tries. The route setting was hard but great and in the end ten did get at least one top and many very close calls. Japan got three to the final and five in the Top-9 and all seven participants in Top-14. 1. Adam Ondra CZE 34 2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 24 3. Kokoro Fujii JPN 24 4. Keita Dohi JPN 24 5. Yannick Flohe GER 24 6. Jakob Schubert AUT 14 Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

1. Janja Garnbret SLO 33 2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 22 (4) 3. Shauna Coxsey GBR 22 (6) 4. Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 12 (3) 5. Miho Nonaka JPN 12 (5) 6. Nanako Kura JPN 1 Complete results Janja Garnbret saved the show and won in great style. On the picture by Vladek Zumr she is doing her patented pendulum swing sticking a sideway dyno.

The male boulder final turned out way too hard with Jakob Schubert getting the silver by only getting three zones. Tomoa Narasaki somewhat saved the show by getting two tops but was not even close on the remaining two. Third was Yannick Flohe, in reality being the closest to get a top beside Narasak, although suffering from bleeding fingers. Adam Ondra, who won the semi, was not even close to get one zone on the tricky and almost only coordination and jumping challenging boulders. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

Sascha Lehmann, Jakob Schubert and Tomoa Narasaki flashed both qualification routes. Adam Ondra was #10 after one top and being #22 and Czech Republich had three guys in To-13. Japan got five through to the Top-26 semifinal and all their six participants Top-29. No big names failed to make it but some Olympic candidates struggled; #28 Jernej Kruder, #30 Nathaniel Coleman, #33 Jan Hojer, #38 Yannick Flohe, #39 Manuel Cornu and Michael Piccolruaz. Among the Speed specialist, Bassa Mawem was #60 which means that if he wins the Speed he will almost certain get an Olympic ticket. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

All big names but Sol Sa, Mina Markovic and Ashima Shiraishi made it through and interesting was Shauna Coxey at #23. Janja Garnbret was the only one to flash both routes and another four Slovenians Top-18. Among the Speed specialists; Andrea Rojas #56, Anouck Jaubert #60, Aleksandra Kalucka #64 and YiLing Song #66. It just might be that if any of them are #1 and #2, we might have two Speed specialists getting and Olympic ticket even if one is more likely. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

Marco Zanone has done his second 9a, Le Cadre Nouvelle Version in Céüse, meaning he did the unchipped variant. "Wow. A real struggle for me. Can't believe I completed my second 9A in one of the best crag in the world. World-class, a route I'll never forget." Interesting is tha Marco had previous years done a maximum of two 8c+' and this year he has already done five. In the 8a ranking game, he is #11.