Keenan Takahashi has done his third 8C and Giuliano Cameroni his twelfth Monkey Wedding in Rocklands. Cameroni: ”Monkey Wedding is one of my favorite boulders: it has a very nice sequence and it goes from impossible in humid conditions to feel really good when it’s cold and dry. Classic!” On the picture by Julie La Guigne Keenan does the FA of Doomsday 7C. "I’ve stared at this arête above Champside since my first trip in 2014. When I rapped in this season I was excited but horrified in realizing it was possible.⁣"

Zàhéér Ahmád from Pakistan got an invitation from IFSC who paid part of the trip and all the hotel costs for him participating in the Hachioji World Championship. What they forgot to say is that if he would have participated in all three disciplines, he would probably have gotten an invitation to Tokyo 2020, being the only Tripartite candidate competing. The Pakistani, who participated in Speed (26.37) and Lead (1+*) in Xiamen in 2016, did only start in Boulder (no zone) and Speed (false start) in Hachioji. His personal best is 7.95 in Speed. "I never played any sport in my school and in college career. I started Rock Climbing as a first sports in 2013 in my university life and we had our first sport climbing national facility in end of 2017, where we started our practice for international events without coach and physio, just eight guys with manual belay and manual timing. We were sent to China for training which help us a lot. Most of the time we are trying to just gather four persons; one for climb, one for timer and two for belaying. It's hard for me to gather four climbers among the 8 serious climbers in Pakistan. How does it feel knowing that if you had just participated in Lead you would probably have made it to Tokyo 2020? I am training speed climbing five days a week for almost two years now with a long term goal in my mind to make it to Paris 2024. Our resources are very limited with not even an auto-belay and auto-timer yet i like it. We are few guys training hard to improve and it was an honor for me to be selected for Hachioji. I am devastated if i just participated in Lead my dream would come true, which would definitely changed my life forever. I really hope my federation can ask IFSC why they forget to mention such an amazing and unique tripartite quota and if it would be still possible to make it to Tokyo. I appreciate this idea of giving opportunity to athletes for minor Olympic countries can make their dream come true. * It was actually his friend who climbed but he had taken the wrong starting number :)

"It is literally impossible to climb in a way that you are 100 % sure that you never step on a bolt, because then you would not be in the flow and you would never be climbing efficiently." Based on this and that also Shauna Coxsey stepped on a bolt, it is about time that IFSC try to deal with the issue so it can not be such anti climax in Tokyo? Further more, should it be possible to make appeals? Why not just have a referee and possibly a "VAR" room who together takes the decisions without interfering with the coaches.

Number One direkt 7b+ is located in the “Graue Wand” sector of the ‘Schleierwasserfall’ waterfall climbing area. The 30-metre long sports climbing route runs along a south-facing limestone rock face. The challenging route on the slightly overhanging rock requires nimble footwork in the lower section with some far reaches and large holds, as well as smaller finger holes in the upper part of the climb. The climb is surrounded by a beautiful mountain panorama with the spectacular ‘Schleierwasserfall’ waterfall right next door. The climbing area is located in the Wilder Kaiser Mountain Range. All these characteristics contributed to "Number One direkt" being voted one of the Great Lines at Climbers Paradise Tirol by a panel of experts.

In the qualification and in the semi, the number one prio is to select the Top-20 respectively the Top-6. It is of less importance to challenge the very best. This should mean that the very best outcome would be that four (3) boulders are needed to top in order to make it through. If more than 20 (6) tops all five (4), most would say that the boulders were too easy. Looking at the stats in Arco, we can say that the boulder setters did score a better success rate in comparison to in Hachioji. On the other hand, out of the 12 sets of qualification and semi set of boulders, none were too easy but possibly 3 - 6 sets were too hard. As a matter of a fact, checking IFSC stats the last 10 years, it is the same, never too easy but quite often too hard. In order to create better qualification and semi boulder settings, IFSC should inform the setters how many tops are ideal to advance respectively how many percentage tops are wanted.

One male and one female in Tokyo 2020 was planned to go to a Tripartite invitation place. It is just nations with eight or less individual participates in the last two Olympics games that can get such an invitation. Further more, in order to get a Tripartite invitation you need to take part in the Combined World Championship. Checking the Combined results in Hachioji, no athlete from the mentioned countries took part meaning the Tripartite Olympic ticket will be reallocated to the next best, not yet qualified, in Hachioji. The selection will be after the results in three different types of competitions that have appointed 18 invitations. As there is a max two country quota there are several that could get the "tripartite" reallocation. As it stands, Yannick Flohé and Anouck Jaubert have the first chance. However, if Jan Hojer from Germany as well as Julia Chanourdie and Fanny Gibert, fill their country quota, it will go to Nathaniel Coleman and Mia Krampl. In theory, as also Mia or another female from Slovenia qualifies, we might have to go down to Di Niu #15 in Hachioji.

Laura Rogora, who the last week was #19 and #20 in boulder and Lead in Hachioji, did win also Boulder in Arco. This mean she won the Combined with 1 - 1 - 4 ahead of Natalia Grossman 3 - 2 - 2. 00: Laura Rogora ITA 02: Lucy Douady FRA - Ao Yurikosa JPN Complete results (c) Marco Iacono

Russia with three golds and one silver and USA with two golds and three more medals dominated the Speed events in Arco. Most impressive was the boys oldes final with Sergey Rukin winning at 5.84 just 0.03 sec before his team mate Almaz Nagaev. Among the girls, Emma Hunt (16). twice doing 8.18 was relatively to her age most impressive. In general we can see that the big dominance form eastern Europe and Asia was broken. 00: Elena Remizova RUS - Sergey Rukin RUS 02: Emma Hunt USA - Iaroslav Pashkov USA 04: Callie Close USA - Hryhorii Ilchyshyn UKR

Allison Vest, fresh from Hachioji where she was #47 in Boulder and #48 in Lead, has done her first 8B, Terminator Squamish after a total of some 7 or 8 sessions. (c) Jake Scharfman. What is next? Any Olympic dream? My sights are already set on the next World Cup season. Ready for comps to start again. Most of my time is spent in the gym training for competitions so my opportunities to get outside are few and far between :)

During the World Championship it was obvious that the selection process to the Olympics was not clear. The commentators and some media thought that Japan was going to select two athletes to the Olympics. Now we know that they, logically, will wait until the last competitions until they will choose their Host nation spot. What is also not clear in the official qualification document is whether the Japanese will be allowed to compete in the qualification event in Toulouse. This will have a major impact as they probably will have another 8 - 10 male and female qualified being Top-20 in the overall combined. If they are out, it will probably be good enough to be Top-30 to make it to Toulouse. When it comes to the Tripartite selection the National Olympic Committees will submit their requests to the Tripartite Commission. In reality, only countries with a max of eight athletes in the last two Olympics in individual sports, can be proposed. Later this Commission will select one male and one female going to Tokyo 2020. As it stands, I can not find any male or female that can be selected as the tripartite selection? One could speculate that if one of the best athletes could not qualify due to an injury, that person could be the selection. At the same time, the max country quota is two and further more that such selections often goes to athletes from smaller countries not so well represented at the Olympics.