In one of the hardest female semi rounds ever, Shauna Coxsey was #5 by just doing one Top and one Zone. Luckily, Janja Garnbret and three Japanese saved the show. Oriane Bertone, 14 years old, was #8 by doing one Top which only was done by Garnbret and Miho Nonaka. Nine girls did not get one zone! Also among the male, one Top was good enough to make it to the final. Florian Klingler won being the only one with two tops and four zones. Nine male did not score a Top. Semi results (c) Vladek Zumr

As no athletes from micro Olympic nations took part in the Combined WCH, there will be no Tripartite selection. This means that the selection will be reallocated to the next best in Hachioji, not yet qualified, respecting the max country quota. At the moment, it means that Yannick Flohé and Anouck Jaubert have a provisional ticket to Tokyo. However, if Jan Hojer respectively Fanny Gibert and Julia Chanouride qualify in Toulouse or at the European Championship, Flohé and Jaubert are kicked out due to the max country quota. This would mean the reallocation of the tripartite selection will go to Nathaniel Coleman from USA and Julia Chanouride. This is also the case of Flohé and Jaubert qualify in Toulouse or at the Euro CH. In practice, it could be that France have gotten their max quota and then Chanouride is out and the tripartite reallocation will go to Mia Krampl. However, as Krampl could have qualified or that Slovenia has reached their max country quota, then Di Niu from China would go to Tokyo. Out of all possibly scenarios, here are the probabilities for the top ranked getting the the Tripartite reallocation; Di Niu 33 % - Nathaniel Coleman 67 % Anouck Jaubert 32 % - Yannick Flohé 30 % Mia Krampl 30 % - Others 3 % Others 5 % In theory at least five more male and female could get the tripartie reallocation if all the above qualifies or their nation have reached the max country quota. Here are the overall probabilities that the mentioned athletes will make it to Tokyo; 80 % Nathaniel Coleman & Anouck Jaubert 67 % Mia Krampl & Yannick Flohé (meaning 33 % for Jan Hojer) 40 % Di Niu

Linda Sjödin has done New Base Line in Magic Wood. The Swede's previous personal best was 8A. Eric Karlsson's video perfectly captures her almost shocking journey to be the 11th woman to reach 8B+. The last two years she has done seven World Cups with #51 as her best.

The last event to qualify for Tokyo is the five Continental Combined Championships which will take place in spring 2020. No info of how they will be set up in regards format etc is available yet. However, as most of them are scheduled to last just 2 - 4 days, one might speculate that first the three disciplines will be run in qualification mode getting the Top-8, who then will run a final during one day. In other words, the flash or semi? results in Lead will be multiplied with the qualification results in Speed and Boulder to get the Top-8. In regards the European and the Asian Championship, it just might be that very few of the best will take part as they already have qualified or that their country quota has been filled. Furthermore, most probably, these events will be held in the same period as the Boulder World Cup will run in 2020. Being a bit conspiratorial, the Continental Championship might be the best possibility for Russia to get a ticket to Tokyo, by sending the biggest team possible to Moscow and then run the results by the calculator? It should also be mentioned that this is the only possibility for Chaehyon Seo to qualify as she has not done any Boulder World Cups, so she can qualify to Toulouse, and that she did not make it in Hachioji.

Alex Honnold, who previously has done three 8c+', has done his first 9a, Arrested Development in Mount Charleston. More info to come. In 2017, Alex free soled the 950 m Freerider and the film of it won an the Oscar Documentory award this spring. Then we contacted Alex asking for an interview. "I’m happy to do some kind of interview for 8a at some point, though we should wait a few months for all the crazy movie travel to be over. I’m hoping to be the first (and maybe only) climber to send 9a and go to the Oscars in the same year. If I ever manage to climb that hard you should do a proper 8a interview."

Giuliano Cameroni has done his third 8C in just ten days, Finnish Line in Rocklands and amazingly it took him just three sessions. (c) Lucas Gaona Cifuentes On his Insta he comments, "Absolutely perfect boulder, one of those dream lines that alone are worth traveling for! The ending was pretty epic, I got sweaty and couldn’t see the holds cause of the sun haha.. actually this might be my most memorable ascent so far! Had a perfect crew and lots of pads, thanks everyone for the support."

Japan got four male among the Top-7 in the Adidas Rockstars qualification and among the female, two of them did all four boulders on their first go. More info and pictures on Adidas Rockstars. Livstreaming on Saturday; Semifinal 11.00 am - 1.30 pm and Final & Superfinal 8.15 pm - 11.15 pm. Results: Male and Female.

Gonzalo Larrocha, who previously has done 12 routes 9a and harder, has done two 9a's on the same day, Cosi se Arete and La Gioconda in Rodellar. "I have spent two weeks in Rodellar. Both routes are quite long. Cosi sa arete is 50m with the hardest part in the last 5m. Gioconda is over 45 m with a 25m roof with a lot of tricks." The 35 year old Spaniard is by far having his best year. He did his first 9a four years ago and then he has been on a continuous progress.

"Impressive, gravity-defying moves on state-of-the-art climbing walls are guaranteed when the world’s best bouldering athletes fight for an entry to the super-final at the annual adidas ROCKSTARS invitational that is hosted in Germany next weekend, on the 13th and 14th of September. Among the competitors of adidas ROCKSTARS 2019 are the defending champions Miho Nonaka (JPN) and Jernej Kruder (SLO), the incredibly gifted Janja Garnbret (SLO), who won this year’s overall bouldering world cup as well as a triple World Champion title (Boulder, Lead, Olympic Combined), the triple adidas ROCKSTAR Sean McColl (CAN) and the two-time overall bouldering world cup winners, Shauna Coxsey (GBR) and Jongwon Chon (KOR). Adidas Rockstars, when Climbers Meet Music. Qualifications on Friday and on Saturday, live-streaming; Semifinal 11.00 am - 1.30 pm and Final & Superfinal 8.15 pm - 11.15 pm

Vojta Trojan, who just turned 20, has done his second 9a, Der Heilige Gral in Frankenjura. (c) Jakub Konečný "I knew that it was a question of time, because the moves already didn't feel hard for me. I started trying it almost a year ago and it took me almost 30 days to finish it. The main problem was, that it was (more or less) wet all the time. So I just had to be strong enough to climb it even with wet hands! This route is really a milestone for me.. I've never sacrificed that much for one route. But this route was definitely worth it! Definitely the best I've seen and climbed.