Radek Votocek, who has done four 9a’s since March, has sent Vakuumgeist (9a) in Drachenwand.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I’m really happy that I managed to finish Vakuumgeist. It’s a route from 1999 by Klem Loskot and it’s harder than the neighbouring route Hantillio which I climbed in May. Both routes share the main boulder, but I had a problem with the high temperatures in June and July — the smooth holds didn’t have good friction. It was stressful for me to keep falling at the end of the route. Next time, I’ll probably choose a route with the crux at the beginning 😀

Laura Rogora, who was runner-up in the last WC, has had three amazing days in Gorges du Loup sending KinematiX (9a), Punt'X (9a) and Just two fix (9a) as well as flashing Hot Chili-X (8c). At just 14, she climbed her first 9a, and in the years since, the 24-year-old has sent more than 40 routes graded 8c+/9a or harder. (c) Alberto della Guida

Can you tell us more about the start of your trip?
I'm currently in Gorges du Loup for a week, taking advantage of the long break before the next competitions. I came here without a specific route in mind, but on the first day, I tried PuntX and Kinematix. I immediately felt good on PuntX, so the next day I decided to focus on it. On my first try of the day, I unexpectedly fell quite high up, mostly due to a few mistakes. On my second try (fifth overall), I managed to send it.

After that, I went back to Kinematix. I felt slightly better on it than the day before, but I was still struggling with a move on the 8b+ exit. After a rest day, I returned and managed to get through the crux of Total Eclatch quite smoothly. I was almost sure I would fall on the exit, but everything went perfectly and I topped it out.

Later, I also flashed Hot Chili X, which my friends were trying and it went quite smoothly. At the end of the day, I tried Just Two Fix. The first pitch has a long move at the end, so I had to figure out an alternative beta, which turned out to be quite hard. The following day, I fell three times at the end of the first pitch, but I managed to optimize the second pitch. On my fourth go of the day (sixth in total), I finally climbed the first pitch and went all the way to the top.

Pepa Šindel, who two weeks ago sent Action Directe (9a), has done Nice freshly baked (9a) in Frankenjura. ”2 days in bad conditions. Very far tricky low percentage move to a good pocket.”

Sera Gearhart, #1 in the female ranking game, has done Fool me Twice (8A+) in Uinta Mountains. ”Work week kicked my ass so we stayed more local than usual, sick one from Matt!”

How has your summer been and how was the ascent?
My summer has been very busy the past month with work. I was hoping to go back to the Colorado alpine to try The Automator (8B) but haven’t made it back. This weekend we tried a boulder our friend Matt put up that’s more local. Cool overhang with obvious holds. It was nice!

Tereza Širůčková, who was 14th and 16th in the two first World Cups in 2025, has done Follow the River (8c) in Krkavka.

Can you tell us more about your climbing summer and the ascent?
After my last comps, I felt completely drained — both mentally and physically. I didn’t feel like myself while climbing. Everything was a fight, and climbing didn’t feel so much fun anymore. I packed up and headed to the rocks. No expectations, just the hope to reconnect with why I love climbing in the first place.

We started off trying to flash some routes at my home crag, but nothing really clicked. The conditions weren’t great, the flow was off, and it just felt… meh. But at least I climbed a few easier routes — twice 8a+, an 8b — and felt nothing but pure joy just being there with that magical piece of rock and climbing. Because of the conditions we spontaneously drove to a different crag next day.

There, I got back on a route I had tried earlier this year: Follow the River. Back then, it felt impossible. The route begins with a short boulder problem around 7C/+, which leads straight into an 8b+ route I already knew. But I couldn’t even do the boulder the first time — the holds are small, require a locked-off position I struggle with, and the key move is a dynamic catch into a micro edge. With my height, it just feel so hard.

The route used to be graded around 8b+/c, but a rest jug before second boulder broke off some time ago, which changed the character a bit. Still, the real difficulty for me was that boulder at the start — it felt totally out of reach.

Conditions weren’t ideal — humid, bad friction. I was on my second climbing day in a row, but in my warm-up I send 8a+. I remember thinking, “Huh, I actually feel decent today…” Still, I didn’t expect what came next.

So when I pulled on this time, with no pressure, no expectations, and kinda tired from the day before, I had zero plans to send. But somehow, I stuck the move that had shut me down — on my very first try. I didn’t quite get the shoulder position for the next move and fell, but after a rest, I sent the entire boulder. I couldn’t believe it. The move that once felt impossible was suddenly mine. I was nervous, especially after the boulder — I knew I could’t fall now. But somehow, I kept it together and clipped the chains. My first 8c. 🥹 [She has done two 8c+’] ⸻ Sometimes the best sends come when you’re not chasing them — just showing up, doing what you love, and letting it surprise you.

What is coming up next?
Now it’s time to rest a bit, recharge, and then jump back into serious training for the World Championships. Maybe even sneak a look at some 9a projects.

In the Lead World Cup, Alberto Ginés López holds a 140-point lead over Satone Yoshida and a 535-point lead over Sorato Anraku heading into the final event in Slovenia this September. If Anraku takes the win, Ginés López must finish at least seventh to clinch the overall title.

Magnus Midtbo gets destroyed by Janja Garnbret, who says she doesn't train cardio, gym, or hangboarding. Actually, she says that the latter is the biggest mistake climbers do. The double Olympic champion plans to travel to Finland to try Burden of Dreams (9A).

Mathieu Bouyoud, with a total of 51 routes 9a or 9a+ to his name, has done Vodni svet (Water world) (9a) and Halupca 1979 (9a) in Osp/Misja Pec.

Can you tell us more about the trip and the ascents?
Two weeks climbing with kids for the summer holidays is perfect in Osp. The sea is close and the place is safe with sand on the floor. Nice long routes in a perfect place for family climbing. I maked 3 tries for each 9a. Long effort in stalactites...

Cameron Hörst has climbed Show Your Teeth (9a) at Wolf Point. ”Not sure how I managed to pull off a hard one at the Point this late in the game. But here we are. Only way out was sending! One of my new favs in Lander!” (c) Daniel Teitenbaum

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Afew weeks ago, I watched BJ Tilden work on and then make the first ascent of Show Your Teeth. The route immediately caught my attention—it stood out from the other 9as at the crag. Instead of delicate, techy movement on shallow pockets, Show Your Teeth features fast-paced, bouldery climbing on unique features of rock.

Shortly after BJ sent the route, I began working on it alongside Jonathan Siegrist, who made quick work of it, sending in just a few sessions. I also made fast progress, then started getting shut down by a low-percentage deadpoint at the end of the crux. I fell on that move something like 18 times over five sessions before finally sticking it and sending the route.

With only the World Cup in Koper in September left in the Lead World Cup 2025, Erin McNeice is 235 points ahead of Chaehyun Seo. All the six events count meaning if Seo wins the last event, meaning McNeice wins overall if she is runner-up. On the other hand, as possibly Janja Garnbret will win at her home turf, it is good enough for McNeice to place as number fourth if Seo is second.