Aries Susanti Rahayu sat a new world record with 11 hundreds at 6.995 in the final race against Yiling Song. Among the male QiXin Zhong won at 7.208 as his opponent fell. Complete results Overall Yiling Song and Bassa Mawem won. Complete results

Within two weeks, after the two last Lead and the last Speed WC's, we will know who made it to the Toulouse Olympic qualification. It is the relative ranking in each discipline that counts. Even if there is no more Boulder event, that relative ranking will change as some who have not yet competed in two events in each discipline is missing in the ranking, for example, Adam Ondra. At this point, it is almost impossible to predict who will make it as there are too many uncertainties and we could also add some speed climbers fairness dilemma. Thee are at least six Speed male specialists that still have the chance and almost certain Bassa Mawem and Nikolai Yarilovets will make it. Also, Alifan Muhammed and Aleksandr Shikov can make it but in reality, their best chance is actually that few compete. Another option is simply that some of the guys that already have qualified, or athletes from the same nations, actually loose on purpose in the last rounds. The more Speed climbers in Toulouse, the greater the chance for them to make it to Tokyo. Among the female, it is a similar situation. YiLing Song, Aleksandra Kalucka and Aries Susanti will most probably make it to Toulouse. Furthermore, Andrea Jojas and Rong Jiang, have great chances. Then we have Elena Krasovskaia and Rong Jiang who are good Speed Climbers. What makes it delicate, is that there will most likely come a situation where two climbers from a big Speed climbing nation like Russia, China or Poland, where it could be strategically to let the climber with the best chance to make it to Toulouse actually win.

Matilda Söderlund, #6 in the WCH in 2012 and who then focused on her studies, has done The Elder Statesman in Frankenjura, which is a direct version of The Last Rites 8c+, which she sent yesterday. Amazingly, she only needed four sessions to do her first 9a. (c) Sammy Dahlman "It is a hard boulder with the hardest move involving a mono. It suites me perfectly. Long moves on super small holds." This is what she reported yesterday after having done the 8c+ version. "The Last Rites was my first project of this trip. It suits me very well with the small crimps. I was in Frankenjura in April and after that trip I decided to return again in October, so I’ve been preparing for this trip since then. It seems like training is paying off, mainly working on my power. Next on my list of routes here is the direct start of The Last Rites! (9a)."

Rock & Ice comes with the great news that the Access Fund's work have ended with the first climbing law in U.S - the Emery County Public Land Management Act "Nothing in this part prohibits recreational rock climbing activities in the wilderness areas, such as the placement, use, and maintenance of fixed anchors, including any fixed anchor established before the date of the enactment of this Act- (1) in accordance with the Wilderness Act (16 U.S.C. 1131 et seq.); and (2) subject to any terms and conditions determined to be necessary by the Secretary."

In the last Speed event in 2019, Sol Sa made it to the final by setting a personal record by 8.71. Among the male, Kokoro Fujii was best of the non-specialist with 6.58. Otherwise it seems Speed climbing has not been prioritized lately among the best Lead and Boulderers as most were slower compared to the World Championship. Who among the Speed specialist who will make it to Toulouse will be decided after the final.

Matt Fultz has done the first repeat of Adain Robert's 8C, Railway in RMNP. "It took three sessions which included a day in June which was way too hot. It was my style for sure, total board climb." This was his fourth 8C, all of them done the last six months and he is #5 in the 8A ranking. Looking at the trend diagram, the 28-year-old should be at least Top-3 next year.

Aleksandra Taistra has done the 11 pitches Hotel Supramonte in Sardina, including two 8b pitches. She started working on it last year and this year it has been an ongoing project since last month. " In our second day of climbing (with 2 days rest between) I was able to finish my dream with a big smile on my face :) This day I climbed quite fast. I needed 5 hours to climb 1st 6 pitches (7b+, 7c+, 8b, 8a+, 8b, 7c). When I arrived at the last pitch 6b+ the stressful situation started. I had to climb 50m of poorly protected (2 bolts) 6b+ in complete darkness. I got lost in the wall and tried to improve my trad skills ;) My climbing partner Simone Papila was great support that gave me faith that I climb each pitch and finish my story with Hotel this day. I also would like to thanks Valter De Lucia for fantastic support last season. I have never supposed how big an effort it would be to climb so many pitches in a row without giving up. I would like to express myself well but it’s quite hard to speak about feelings that everybody should experience alone to understand what is going on.”

In 2016, Chris Sharma did the FA of Alasha, named after his daughter, after five years of projecting. He did not grade it but said it was similar in the difficulty of Es Pontas which he did also not grade but where 9a+ seems to be the consensus. The crux is at 18 meters and this Sharma thought was like an 8B boulder.