18 October 2019

Speed climbers dilemma in Xiamen

Within two weeks, after the two last Lead and the last Speed WC's, we will know who made it to the Toulouse Olympic qualification. It is the relative ranking in each discipline that counts. Even if there is no more Boulder event, that relative ranking will change as some who have not yet competed in two events in each discipline is missing in the ranking, for example, Adam Ondra. At this point, it is almost impossible to predict who will make it as there are too many uncertainties and we could also add some speed climbers fairness dilemma. Thee are at least six Speed male specialists that still have the chance and almost certain Bassa Mawem and Nikolai Yarilovets will make it. Also, Alifan Muhammed and Aleksandr Shikov can make it but in reality, their best chance is actually that few compete. Another option is simply that some of the guys that already have qualified, or athletes from the same nations, actually loose on purpose in the last rounds. The more Speed climbers in Toulouse, the greater the chance for them to make it to Tokyo. Among the female, it is a similar situation. YiLing Song, Aleksandra Kalucka and Aries Susanti will most probably make it to Toulouse. Furthermore, Andrea Jojas and Rong Jiang, have great chances. Then we have Elena Krasovskaia and Rong Jiang who are good Speed Climbers. What makes it delicate, is that there will most likely come a situation where two climbers from a big Speed climbing nation like Russia, China or Poland, where it could be strategically to let the climber with the best chance to make it to Toulouse actually win.
1 comment
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ