NEWS

Alex Puccio back in the game with Epochalypse 8B
Alex Puccio has done her 8B #30, Epochalypse in Flagstaff, which is the sitstart Trice 8A+, from 1975. It took 32 years before it got it's first repeat by Carlo Traversi in 2007. (c) Bodyenroute "First real send outside after ACL knee surgery! :) I repeated the stand, Trice, several times the other day and the day I sent this climb, then did the sit quickly after. Toe beta, no heel. 4.5 months Post Op right now! Starting to feel like myself again!!! :) Still can't really fall until March-ish so low balls and sport climbing for me! :)"

Knocking on heavens door 8A+ by Karoline Sinnhuber
karoline sinnhuber has done her tenth 8A+ in 2019, Knocking on heavens door in Zillertal. video " I was thinking about that highball already a few years ago and already checked it out twice on the rope, but I was just too weak for the hard crux part at the beginning. The crimps are really small and you have bad footholds. This time I found a different beta for the start and as I could do all the moves on the rope I decided to give it a go. I'm glad for not making the experience of dropping down from the "point of no return". massive line!

Real Absurdistan 8C FA by Toni Lamprecht (48)
Toni Lamprecht, one of the best climbers in the world since the mid 90-ies, has done another 8C FA in Kochel, Real Absurdistan. The video shows that in the end it was a night head lamp send. In total the 49-year-old, who is having one of his best years, has put up some 60 climbs graded 8c and 8B respectively. More info to come.

Hannes Huch has presented an article saying he thinks Said Belhaj did lie about his ascent of Action Directe 9a last year. The German journalist previously working together with Cafe Craft, describes that several circumstances, like Said not beeing cooperative, have made him come to this conclusion. However, Hannes does not present any evidence what so ever. I think that the media could ask for details and some kind of cooperation with the media in regards "world records" like when Bernabe Fernandez did the FA of Chilam Balam in 2003, calling it 9b+. When we talk world-class ascents, a grade pyramid is good enough as a backup. Going further down the list talking 9a's, I do not think the media should start asking for proof etc. We have to respect the freedom of climbing. Talking about Said Belhaj, I do think Hannes Huch is pushing it to far. Belhaj age 37 has been a the top climber for at least 15 years regularly climbing with the best climbers out there. He has done several 9a's, the latest last month, and Papichula 9a+.

Dreamtime 8C (B+) and The Story... 8C by Ryuichi Murai
Ryuichi Murai, who last month did theFA of United 8C+, has done an impressive one day ascent of Dreamtime 8C (B+) in Cresciano. Last week he did another classic, The Story of Two Worlds 8C. In total, Murai has done a dozen 8C and harder which makes him just about Top-5 in the world. (c) Keita Watabe "I took about 2 hours to send Dreamtime. First, I practiced each moves a few times. Then on my 4th try from start, I could climb it. The first part of this line was especially hard, and a crux was a dyno in the middle part. Therefore, the important thing was how I could smoothly perform the first part and make the dyno successful."

La Reina Mora 9a (8c+) Moritz Welt (18)
Moritz Welt, #3 in the Combined ranking game, has done Ramon Puiblanque's La Reina Mora in Siurana. He put it up as an 8c but nowadays most think it deserves 9a. (c) Julia Cassou "Siurana target #2 and my ultimate Spain trip goal! Wanted to do this one since I stood the first time below this perfect line two years ago! So happy to finish this in only 4 more sessions this time!" The 18-year-old is on a three months road trip in Spain, mainly in Margalef and Siurana. His next project is possible First Ley 9a+. "Sometimes I'd be happy about a little more comfort but I enjoy it. Also I have to save money. I will go back around christmas. Maybe then first some Frankenjura bouldering and making up some plans for spring."

Climbing is growing and especially indoors and this trend will continue and in 2030, we just might be 50 % more climbers. Experienced climbers fear that this will dramatically increase access problems and create ques on their routes but I do not agree on that. We already know that few of the new generation gym climbers are interested to climb outdoors regularly. One reason for that is that you do not get a good upper body physical exercise spending 90 min in the nature challenging routes graded 4 to 6a. Furthermore, it is normally more dangerous and painful to climb outdoors and you will not perform in accordance with your gym grades. At the same time, we will increase the number of developed routes with possibly 25 %. This means a greater possibility to spread out instead of queuing up on the nearest routes and boulders you already have done a dozen times. Access problems are already a fact but as a big portion of the outdoor climbers will kids and climbing families, landowners and municipalities will have greater acceptance. As it is also expected that the new generation climbers are more willing to spend money in comparison to the old "dirt-bag" generation, tourism authorities etc will see climbers as a target group. Other things likely to happen - Adam Ondra has done 9c+ and it projecting 10a - Olympic medals in four disciplines including DWS - Total Asian dominance on the comp scene - Airpads making it possible to land from 8 meters - Route setting through holds with lights indoors - Development of 2 - 4 graded bolted routes/boulder - Athlete live-streaming with drones - Female, youngsters and seniors catching up - 33 % wearing helmets - GPS climb search for routes and boulders

Drischiebl right 8A+ by Karoline Sinnhuber
karoline sinnhuber has done her ninth 8A+ in 2019, Drischiebl right in Zillertal. (c) Fabian Leu The 24-year-old former competition boulderer is having her best year ever and is #4 in the 8a ranking game. "The reason why this is my best year so far, might be that I just concentrate on the outdoor stuff and donโ€˜t have to train comp style anymore and of course I spend much more time outdoors than the years before. Might sound weird, but I also spend more time in the gym for training than I did during my comp career."

Dreamtime 8C (B+) by Stefano Carnati
Stefano Carnati, who previoulsy has done eleven routes 9a and harder, has done his first 8C, Dreamtime in Cresciano. "Yoo! Did the stand one month ago (which I tried a few days over the past years) and it took me 2 more sessions to finish it off. 8B+, 8C, I'm definitely not the one who can tell, but who cares with such a line! So stoked!" The classical Fred Nicole boulder was put up as the first 8C in the world which later was downgraded but since a hold broke most think it should be up there again. More important is the stunning line and all the 21 who have star rated it has given it three stars like Stefano!