Here is the list of the most repeated routes that have been considered as 9a but has later been subject to be down graded. The logic behind this is that the community often quickly learns which routes are soft for the grade. 39 Era Vella - Margalef 38 Estado Critico - Siurana 27 Underground - Arco 25 Esclatamasters - Perles 22 Seleccio Natural - Santa Linya 20 A Muerte - Siurana Era Vella has just been repeated once during the last 18 months. The reasons for this are probably that the community has less interest to repeat it as it is not any longer considered 9a at the same it might have gotten more difficult due to a broken hold. Action Directe has 26 ascents but was originally considered 8c+/9a but is probably very hard for being 9a. During the last 14 months, it has only been repeated once.

Vadim Timonov has done his fourth 8C during the last month, From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico and it took him just two session. Equally impressive is the pictured ten min ascent of Boogalagga 8B. In the 8a ranking game, the Russian who got the bronze in the Euorp Championship last year, is #5.

Max Bertone, sibling to Oriane appointed as the 8a teenager of 2019, has done Fragile steps in Rocklands. "Second 8A+ for me this year in Rocklands! Last year I was short on the crux. One session to send the boulder this year. I do not have experience in the grade (8B in the topo), but I think that 8A+ fits more." The first 8A+, the 12-year-old, did was Leopard cave. In the video, including also Electric chopper 8A, we can see he has the same amazing foot technique, as his big sister, when it comes to heal-hocking and going feet first in roofs.

Cathy Wagner has done another two 8a+'; Rompimos el chanchito and Pot belge, both in Prat Dip. In total, the 54-year-old has done 181 routes 8a+ and harder. Including also 579 8a, she just might be the female that have done most 8a and harder. Interesting is also that she has done 58 out of them the last 12 months, meaning she has had one of her best year ever.

Irina Kuzmenko, who took the bronze in the Euro Ch. last year, has done Dreamtime stand in Cresciano. " Can't believe its happened! Did it from two small crimps without heel hooks. Honestly by my feelings with two crimps this is 8B. It was a super hard journey with blood, tears and up and downs :). It means a lot to me. I can't describe how happy I'm. " (c) Leo Zhukov

"...it was basically a flash/onsight from the first move in...

Visa det här inlägget på Instagram

Ett inlägg delat av Jakob Schubert (@jakob.schubert) 6 Jan 2020 kl. 10:42 PST

Gabriele Moroni reports on Insta that he has done Demencia senil 9a+ in Margalef after five years of projecting. (c) Marco Zanone "December 2014... That day, I wouldn’t have ever thought I had just started such a biblical process with a lot of trips, amazing days but also some shitty ones, trashed skin, blood and countless meters of tape... But at the end it was all worth it and I have never stopped believing!..." Gabri Moroni has been an active competition climber since 2001 and in 2004, at age 16, he was #3 in the Euro Bouldering Championships. In 2009, he had his best year being #3 overall but it took until 2018, he got his first WC victory. Last year he did not have the chance to compete for Italy as they only focused on the athletes doing all three disciplines.

matteo Soule, who did his first 8b at age 10, has done his first 8c, Résistance in Cantobre. (c) Matthias Paré "It’s a huge achievement for me. My new coach asked me to test me in harder, short and powerful routes out of my comfort zone. I tried again this project in December and needed 10 tries to find the rythm of the route and to arrive fresh in the crux of “Chacaito” (ndlr 8b+)." Next up is Nadesja 8c+/9a, where he already has done all moves. Source Fanatic Climbing