William Bosi, #9 in the Combined WC after beeing fourth twice in Lead, has done his first 9b, La Capella in Siurana. "Woo one of my dream lines, first 9b and almost sent on 2 day. Got the send on 3rd day with bad skin so I think it's soft. However, I've not climbed enough to judge..." In fact, it was the last day best day after one month in Spain with a bad storm that made most wet but a big project bolted by Adrien Boulon. "I only linked it in 3 parts." Previously the 21-year-old has done three 9a's, the last in 2018 when he also did an 8C boulder. After that, his focus has been Tokyo and there is still one chance in the European CH in Moscow. (c) Matt Bird Are you still focusing on Tokyo? How much Speed training at what is your PB? Back to training all in when I get back tomorrow. About 3-5 a day? Hard to say exactly. Speed as much as I can, hopefully, a couple days a week, 6.93

Seb Bouin has been the best route climber in 2019 with twelve routes 9a to 9b+. As a matter of a fact, his annual tick list has only been beaten by Adam Ondra. He was also appointed the sport climber of 2019 in a recent 8a poll. What does climbing mean to you? What is it you like the most? So climbing is my way of life. I can't imagine living without it at the moment. I like to be outdoors and climb on rock, hard route or not. Yeah, I like to be outside trying something hard and also to be in outstanding places. How can you explain the great progress you had in 2019? 2019 was a good year for me, I did a lot of progress in my way of seeing my global climbing and body. I understood a lot concerning prevention, injuries, mental, fail and success. Success is just a bonus of a great battle. If you take every day like that, you are going just for the fight and not the success. Paradoxically, it works very well.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done the third ascent of Papa Oso 8C (B+) in Torrelodones. "I've had a lot of things trying and I've had to change my method several times. Between 8b + and 8c but no idea." (c) Louis Iruela A couple of days later he onsighted four 8a+' in Cueva del Arnal. The 20-year-old has been #1 in the Combined ranking game more or less since Adam Ondra started to focus on Tokyo.

Easter is like two months away and it is about to train more specifically to reach your new goals. First, you have to analyze what kind of rock, holds, steepness, length etc you will challenge and if your focus is redpoint, flash or onsight? Then you have to replicate this in your gym and train in order to get a peak. In practice, if your plan is onsight, this would mean climbing much slower than you are used to indoors. Otherwise, your muscles are not adapted to rather long hanging time looking for the next sequence. If you are going to Frankenjura, you will be better off training on pockets. Going to 30 meter walls, you will probably need to stay at least ten minutes also during your training. In general, if your plan is not Santa Linya or another steep cave, you should climb on less steep terrain then you are used to indoors. For a boulderer it is even more specific and it is hard to say anything in general. Check out the videos of the boulders you want to do and try to replicate them as much as possible indoors.

Based on 3 500 votes, who is the Sport Climber in 2019, Seb Bouin and Barbara Zangerl got most votes. This is the first year since 2017 when Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret were not #1. 40 % Seb Bouin - Barbara Zangerl 41 % 34 % Adam Ondra - Janja Garnbret 40 % 07 % Alex Megos - Isabelle Faus 6 % 06 % Tomoa Narasaki - Chaehyon Seo 5 % 05 % Jakob Schubert - Laura Rogora 4 % 04 % Alberto Gines Lopez - Akiyo Noguchi 2 % 04 % Others - Others 2 %

"The International Federation of Sport Climbing wishes to express its support for the people of China in dealing with the current Coronavirus emergency. As such, the IFSC has shipped 10,000 breathing masks to the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA), also encouraging its Member Federations to join the initiative. The IFSC World Cups in Wujiang and Chongqing and the IFSC Asian Championships, also scheduled in Chongqing – might be postponed, moved or even canceled, if necessary. Further actions shall be taken following the IFSC Executive Board teleconference scheduled on February 11th". More info.