4 February 2020
How to prepare best for the next trip?
Easter is like two months away and it is about to train more specifically to reach your new goals. First, you have to analyze what kind of rock, holds, steepness, length etc you will challenge and if your focus is redpoint, flash or onsight? Then you have to replicate this in your gym and train in order to get a peak.
In practice, if your plan is onsight, this would mean climbing much slower than you are used to indoors. Otherwise, your muscles are not adapted to rather long hanging time looking for the next sequence.
If you are going to Frankenjura, you will be better off training on pockets. Going to 30 meter walls, you will probably need to stay at least ten minutes also during your training. In general, if your plan is not Santa Linya or another steep cave, you should climb on less steep terrain then you are used to indoors.
For a boulderer it is even more specific and it is hard to say anything in general. Check out the videos of the boulders you want to do and try to replicate them as much as possible indoors.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


