Edu Marin, one of the best climbers in the world the last 15 years, has published some interesting thought on Insta in regards the use of knee pads, ethics and down gradings. "If we all use knee pads, at some point we will have to re-graduate the vast majority of the routes in the world. We will need to give them lower difficulty as they were graduated without the use of the knee pads. Another option is to graduate with the use of the knee pad, for example : Catxasa 9a (KP) - kneepad used. The third option, and in my opinion maybe the most valid one, is to respect the difficulty of the routes that were made without knee pad, repeating them without this tool to maintain the original grade. I think that we cannot look the other way because this is a very current issue that is revolutionizing the way of climbing. What do you think?" It is great that Edu takes up the subject trying to respect the grade and the style of the old-school FAs. I do agree that when it comes to ground breaking ascents, possible down grades due to better equipment like kneepads could be mentioned. On the other hand, it would bestrange to say that anyone trying to repeat Action Directe can not use the new formula chalk or better shoes in comparison to what was used in 1991. OK, knee pads have a much bigger impact but I am sure there exist old-school boulder problems which have been much easier just because of better heal hooking possibilities nowadays.

Cathy Wagner has done Le Coq 8a in Mejannes, giving it a personal 8a down grade, and Soltitud in Pratdip, on her second go. "Another amazing route! A great line, some physical moves but weird bolting." In total the 54-year-old has now done 748 routes 8a to 8b, which should be most by all female. Interesting is that she has done like one third of them on her second go.

Jonathan Siegrist has done his tenth 9a+, by doing the FA of One Hundred Proof in Mt Potosi. On Insta he reports, "I’ve been inching my way higher and higher on this monstrous route over the last 2 weeks, but the process really started over a month ago trying hard on its easier sibling ‘Smoke Wagon’." The latter is a 9a is another FA by him, meaning he has done a total of 47 routes 9a to 9b. In he 8a ranking game, he is #3. Next up is a one month trip to Italy. "I've never climbed there. Very excited."

In 2011, a part of Hampi village, the biggest boulder area in India, was destroyed by bulldozers. Last week the supreme court decided that the whole village will be destroyed and that all inhabitants will have to move out. Sign a petition and more info.

Toni Lamprecht, who did his first 8B in 1997, has done two more, 60 watt sonne and Postsexueller sog ins nix, both in Kochel. "The two 8B's are basically sections of a project I'm working on. You could combine the start of "Real Absurdistan" (8C) with the exit of the "60 watt sonne" It is 18m through an 8m roof. A nice goal when I'll be back from ten days skiing and bouldering in Italy. Maybe I'll try Ziqqurat 8C, if the weather is good and the snow is not too high."

Gambaro Matteo, who has put up close to 200 routes, has done the FA of Resilienza mecanica 8c+ in Albenga. "It is a line I bolted two years ago. Hard roof and exit in my 8c, Resistentia Mecanica I bolted the year before. Interesting is that the 45-year-old had his best year ever in 2019. His next goal is to finish his big long term 9a FA project, a combination of two 8c's.

Here are the onsight percentage of the most popular crags. Kalymnos sticks out with 69 %. It might be a good idea to check out the stats for the crags you want to visit also in regards the star rating, where Finale is #1 with 1.5 followed by Céüse with 1.4. Kalymnos 69 % onsight out of 132 172 ascents Leonidio 60 % onsight out of 25 763 ascents Chulilla 59 & onsight out of 32 183 Gorges du Tarn 52 % onsight out of 33 184 ascents Siurana 51 % out of 64 739 ascents Margalef 50 % onsight out of 73 204 ascents Geyik Bayiri 50 % onsight out of 49 106 ascents Arco 49 % onsight out of 48 686 ascents Finale 49 % onsight out of 24 946 ascents Cuenca 48 % onsight out of 36 696 ascents Rodellar 42 % onsight out of 74 653 Red River Gorge 42 % onsight out of 65 814 ascents Céüse 42 % onsight out of 39 979 ascents Frankenjura 37 % % out of 169 046 ascents