23 February 2020

Kneepads ethics and down gradings

Edu Marin, one of the best climbers in the world the last 15 years, has published some interesting thought on Insta in regards the use of knee pads, ethics and down gradings. "If we all use knee pads, at some point we will have to re-graduate the vast majority of the routes in the world. We will need to give them lower difficulty as they were graduated without the use of the knee pads. Another option is to graduate with the use of the knee pad, for example : Catxasa 9a (KP) - kneepad used. The third option, and in my opinion maybe the most valid one, is to respect the difficulty of the routes that were made without knee pad, repeating them without this tool to maintain the original grade. I think that we cannot look the other way because this is a very current issue that is revolutionizing the way of climbing. What do you think?" It is great that Edu takes up the subject trying to respect the grade and the style of the old-school FAs. I do agree that when it comes to ground breaking ascents, possible down grades due to better equipment like kneepads could be mentioned. On the other hand, it would bestrange to say that anyone trying to repeat Action Directe can not use the new formula chalk or better shoes in comparison to what was used in 1991. OK, knee pads have a much bigger impact but I am sure there exist old-school boulder problems which have been much easier just because of better heal hooking possibilities nowadays.
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