Loic Zehani, who previously has done nine FAs 9a to 9b, has done the FA of Teahupoo 9a which was bolted by his father. "The first part is vertical with a boulder problem on the first 2 meters. After that, you have a boulder section (7 moves) in overhang with an undercling up to a little two fingers pocket to get out of the roof and enter in a nice and technical wall. This route is very nice because it's very varied. It took me five days to complete this route because of the boulder section but also because of the wall section."

Martin Stráník, #2 in the World Championship in 2007, has done his fifth 8C the last year, Primitivo in Valle Bavona, meaning he has had his best year ever. In the 8a ranking game the Czech is #4. "Amazing line, hard powerful moves, fit my style very well. 2 sessions in two days."

Seb Bouin and Cedric Lachat have done Klemen Becan's Joe Mama 9a+ in Oliana. Seb has previously done 43 routes 9a and harder and Cedric 28. Picture of Lachat by Julia Cassou Bouin comments, "After a pause and a lot of easier routes as come-back, it was the time to try harder things. It’s complicated to train and to try projects. Sometimes, you feel weak and tired. But it’s fun and this is the way for me. Yesterday a lot of emulation at the crag. We climbed “Joe Mama” 9a(+) with Cédric. It was cool to share our experiences in the route." More quotes also from Lachat, who also says 9a (+), on Fanatic Climbing.

Jonathan Siegrist, #3 in the ranking game, has done the FA of Smoke Wagon 9a in Mt Potosi. "Finally stuck the huge move from the ground! Now it's time for the direct... Awesome project from Andy."

Seb Bouin has been the best route climber in 2019 with twelve routes 9a to 9b+. As a matter of a fact, his annual tick list has only been beaten by Adam Ondra. He was also appointed the sport climber of 2019 in a recent 8a poll. What does climbing mean to you? What is it you like the most? So climbing is my way of life. I can't imagine living without it at the moment. I like to be outdoors and climb on rock, hard route or not. Yeah, I like to be outside trying something hard and also to be in outstanding places. How can you explain the great progress you had in 2019? 2019 was a good year for me, I did a lot of progress in my way of seeing my global climbing and body. I understood a lot concerning prevention, injuries, mental, fail and success. Success is just a bonus of a great battle. If you take every day like that, you are going just for the fight and not the success. Paradoxically, it works very well.

William Bosi, #9 in the Combined WC after beeing fourth twice in Lead, has done his first 9b, La Capella in Siurana. "Woo one of my dream lines, first 9b and almost sent on 2 day. Got the send on 3rd day with bad skin so I think it's soft. However, I've not climbed enough to judge..." In fact, it was the last day best day after one month in Spain with a bad storm that made most wet but a big project bolted by Adrien Boulon. "I only linked it in 3 parts." Previously the 21-year-old has done three 9a's, the last in 2018 when he also did an 8C boulder. After that, his focus has been Tokyo and there is still one chance in the European CH in Moscow. (c) Matt Bird Are you still focusing on Tokyo? How much Speed training at what is your PB? Back to training all in when I get back tomorrow. About 3-5 a day? Hard to say exactly. Speed as much as I can, hopefully, a couple days a week, 6.93

Easter is like two months away and it is about to train more specifically to reach your new goals. First, you have to analyze what kind of rock, holds, steepness, length etc you will challenge and if your focus is redpoint, flash or onsight? Then you have to replicate this in your gym and train in order to get a peak. In practice, if your plan is onsight, this would mean climbing much slower than you are used to indoors. Otherwise, your muscles are not adapted to rather long hanging time looking for the next sequence. If you are going to Frankenjura, you will be better off training on pockets. Going to 30 meter walls, you will probably need to stay at least ten minutes also during your training. In general, if your plan is not Santa Linya or another steep cave, you should climb on less steep terrain then you are used to indoors. For a boulderer it is even more specific and it is hard to say anything in general. Check out the videos of the boulders you want to do and try to replicate them as much as possible indoors.