NEWS

4-Low 8C FA by Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods reports on Insta that he has done the FA of 4-Low 8C FA in Valle Bavona which originally was found and cleaned by Giuliano Cameroni and Jimmy Webb. It is a seven move 8B+ link into a six moves 8A+ and it took him three full sessions. Now he is back home and he has posted a strong message in regards to staying healthy and giving positive vibes to all doctors and nurses out there. (c) Kevin Takashi Smith "This was the last boulder I sent on my trip to Ticino. The last 10 days were some of the best climbing days of my life. Each day, the threat of Covid-19 grew and grew though. After sending this bloc at 1 a.m. I went to sleep just dreaming of all the hard blocs to come. Next day I woke up to news flashes that covid-19 had risen to 2500 cases, 20 min. from the small valley we lived in (1 hour from Milan). A travel ban was put on by the US (not for US citizens though), swiss police enforced social distancing in stores, swiss police were booting out all cars with foreign license plates (I had italian plates and would have to go back to Milan). These were all signs that told me to get the fuck out, so I did."

Illogical 8B by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus has done her 25th 8B, Illogical in Scoop. (c) Chad Greedy "Climbs amazing!! Loved the moves on this one... Griffin put this up and I got the 2nd ascent. He thought it was harder than muscle car (v14) but it suited me pretty well so I'm not sure... time will tell for the grade on this one... Seems like a hard 8B to me." She has also done Mandlorian 8A+ and an 8A FA in a new area called Pine Cliff. In total, Isa has done 16 FAs 8A to 8B, meaning she is the female having done the most hard FAs in the world by a big margin. "Contender for the best in Colorado. Found and cleaned these awesome lines in the fall... 35 minutes from the road in the woods.... was here alone a lot and always had my knife in my hand haha."

Asagimadara 8C by Rei Kawamata (16)
Rei kawamata, who last year was #5 in the Moscow World Cup, has done his first 8C, Asagimadara in Mizugaki. Amazingly, the 16-year-old took it down in just 90 minutes.

USA Today reports that the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Game will be postponed. Dick Pound said it is likely the Games would be postponed to 2021. Previously, IFSC has postponed all World Cups until the Boulder World Cup in Munich 25/5. However, it just might be that more World Cups will be postponed. It should also be mentioned that in many countries it is not allowed to visit a climbing gym or even go out rock climbing.

Byakudo 8C by Nomura Shinichiro
Nomura Shinichiro has done his sixth 8C, Byakudo in Hourai. It took him nine days to do the Dai Koyamada problem consisting of 22 moves in a 150 degree roof. " As you know one finger holding has a huge risk of injury, at the same time it gives me a fear. So I usually hung on finger board by one finger to control the fear, and I climbed the routes I made for one finger training in Gym. Next I'll try Hallucination 8C and Off the Wagon Sit 8C+."

Liquid Nails 8B+ by Giuliano Cameroni
Giuliano Cameroni has done his tenth 8B+ FA, Liquid Nails in Brione. (c) Kevin Takashi Smith "New climb in Brione starting on Ganymede and climbing all the way into the end of on Frogger! Took me one day to figure out the moves and then did it second try on the second day. The crux consists on grabbing into two small holds with a huge heel hook, making the climb high percentage but really crimpy and condition dependent".

Jakob Schubert quarantine training
How has the Coronavirus affected your daily climbing life? Of course, itโ€™s a bit difficult to not go anywhere, especially since the weather is so amazing right now here in Innsbruck, Tyrol. But at least I have a nice garden where I can still enjoy the sun and fresh air. We already installed our beastmaker outside with some ropes since it couldnโ€™t hold the walls inside anymore. We broke it down half a year ago, so we had to be creative to mount the beast maker outside. By now we have two hang boards outside, so everyday we do a couple things out here. What is really cool is that Iโ€™m living together with Michael Piccolruaz, a South Tyrolean who has a good chance to become an Olympian as well, so weโ€™re training together and itโ€™s always easier if youโ€™re two. Itโ€™s way more motivating and fun. Iโ€™m also trying to use the time to work on some weaknesses like mobility and flexibility, so Iโ€™m stretching and I do mobilization exercises, but to be honest, I always hated these parts of the training. Iโ€™ve always been the person whoโ€™s super psyched and motived to climb as much as possible but things like stretching and hang boarding Iโ€™ve never really enjoyed that much, so itโ€™s not the easiest for me. I definitely try and put the effort in and take this opportunity to grow as a person and work on the things I donโ€™t like as much. Other than that Iโ€™m lucky that also my girlfriend is at my place so I get to spend time with her. Besides climbing I have a second passion, online gaming, and itโ€™s a good time to connect with some friends and play some games.