NEWS

REM 8B+ (C+) by Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson, who has done 995 boulders 8A and harder out of which 20 8C's, has done the first repeat of REM in Cresciano calling it 8B+, video. (c) Lizzy Ellison "For me I think itโ€™s important to keep grades consistent around the world. When I think of 8C+, I think of the absolute hardest boulders in the world, climbs like Hypnotized minds, Burden of dreams (which I have not tried), etc. REM just does not feel close to that range to me. I was able to do the crux move on my second try and climbed the boulder in a few short sessions. You can only try it 4 or 5 times in a session because it is so sharp. To me I think 8B+ is more of a fair grade for this climb. Regardless, it is very cool that Giuliano made the first ascent of this line on such a legendary boulder. I think it is very important for people not to just take the high grade on repeats and first ascents. The media is very much drawn to high numbers which I think leads to an overall inflation in grades."

Corvo Morto 8c+/9a FA by Laura Rogora (18)
Laura Rogora, who has qualified to Tokyo, reports on Insta that she has done the FA of Corvo Morto in Ferentillo. In total the 18-year-old has now done nine routes 8c+/9a and harder out of which four FAs. In combination with her competition results, the Italian must be considered the best female climber in the world after Janja Garnbret. (c) Marco Iacono

Joe Mama 9a+ by Jorge Diaz-Rullo
Jorge Diaz-Rullo, who last year did three 9b's, has done his eigth 9a+, Joe Mama in Oliana. His comment on Insta is rather interesting. "At the moment, I don't feel 100%. I've been doing a lot of bouldering and I think I'm still lacking the endurance for these routes." (c) Williclimb Including two 8C's, the 20-year-old is the superior #1 in the Combined ranking game.

Eclipse super total 8c FA by Marta Palou
Marta Palou Carol has done the FA of Eclipse super total 8c in Rodellar, which is a combination of four routes. "

Bรผgeleisen sit 8C by Stefan Scarperi
Stefan Scarperi has done his first 8C, Bรผgeleisen sit in Maltatal and it only took him four sessions. Nalle Hukkatival put it up in 2014 saying it could be the hardest thing he has done and also other repeaters have indicated that it should be a hard 8C. In 2015, he got the bronze in the Euro Bouldering Championship. In the Combined 8a ranking game, the 28-year-old is #8.

Studio Bloc Masters is the biggest bouldering competition in the world where the best compete together with the ordinary gym rat. In the qualification, there is 80 problems and your score is based on how fast you did your most difficult 20 problems. In total 161 female and 350 male participated. Semi 11.30 and final 16.00 will be live-streamed. 1. Janja Garnbret 725 - Vadim Timonov 852 2. Oriane Bertone 722 - Jakob Schubert 841 3. Lucka Rakovec 708 - Michael Piccolruaz 825 Complete qualification results: Female and Male

Excellent show and route setting in Studio Bloc Masters with a great ending as Janja Garnbret did the last boulder, which nobody had done, on her first attempt. Twenty seconds later, Vadim Timonov, made his last boulder also on his first try, moving him up to second position. The male winner was Sergei Topishko who was the only one to finish the third problem and that ascent was something extraordinary remarkable. As a matter of fact, he fell pretty much three times doing it. 1. Janja Garnbret 44 - Sergei Topishko 34 2. Chloe Caulier 24 - Vadim Timonov 34 3. Lucka Rakovec 23 - Yannick Flohe 24 From the semi result we can see that all male with their focus on Tokyo, did actually perform relatively poor in the semi. Jakob Schubert #8, Michael Piccolruaz #9, Alberto Ginรฉs #15 and Aleksei Rubtsov #16.