9 March 2020
REM 8B+ (C+) by Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson, who has done 995 boulders 8A and harder out of which 20 8C's, has done the first repeat of REM in Cresciano calling it 8B+, video. (c) Lizzy Ellison
"For me I think itโs important to keep grades consistent around the world. When I think of 8C+, I think of the absolute hardest boulders in the world, climbs like Hypnotized minds, Burden of dreams (which I have not tried), etc. REM just does not feel close to that range to me. I was able to do the crux move on my second try and climbed the boulder in a few short sessions. You can only try it 4 or 5 times in a session because it is so sharp.
To me I think 8B+ is more of a fair grade for this climb. Regardless, it is very cool that Giuliano made the first ascent of this line on such a legendary boulder. I think it is very important for people not to just take the high grade on repeats and first ascents. The media is very much drawn to high numbers which I think leads to an overall inflation in grades."
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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