NEWS

Adam Ondra has done the first repeat of Martin Stranik's Iceberg 8C in Moravskรฝ kras. The previous day he did one 8B+ and two 8B's in Ostas. The Czech Republic coronavirus numbers, like those in most of central Europe, are much lower than those further west. This week, some of the restrictions were lifted.

Black Label 8c+ (9a) and Space Oddity 8c+ by Moritz Welt (18)
Moritz Welt has done Black Label in Frankenjura logging the 9a as 8c+. "8c+/9a, a few sessions over the last years, two more this year." Three weeks ago, the 18-year-old did the FA of Space Oddity 8c+ in Frankenjura. The picture is from last year when he projected it. "At the moment climbing here in Frankenjura is allowed, but only with one contact person and closest family. So we are not able to meet a lot of people at the moment or go in groups. I also try to prevent injuries by not taking any risk. When I did Black Label I was only there with my dad who belayed me. Due to the restrictions, there couldn't be any photographer to take pictures."

From different locations in Sweden, it has been reported that there never has been so many climbers outdoors and the same goes for sales. Both shops and some gyms report records in sales. Furthermore, climbing courses both indoor and outdoor are booked and the whole rock climbing scene is booming. It seems that as there is limited access to other sports, many gym climbers have started to focus also on rock climbing. The only restriction affecting climbing in Sweden is that you should not travel in between regions and keep social distancing.

Nobody knows how Covid-19 will affect the globe and when it will be over. Here are speculations for three scenarios of how the climbing scene will look like the coming year. What do you think? Optimistic: (IFSC has now postponed July WC's IFSC still hopes that the Lead World Cup will start in Villars in Switzerland 3/7. This can only happen if the pandemic is over in 30 days and very quickly all gyms around the globe will be open. At the same time, the travel restrictions must be cut for all countries. This would also mean that we can start for summer climbing trips abroad. Neutral: Climbing gyms will be open this summer with some restrictions. No restrictions when it comes to rock climbing in your region and you are allowed to travel in between some countries starting from the autumn. Starting from 2021, everything will go back to normal and the World Cup will begin in the spring. Negative: Another three months delay compared to the neutral scenario. Tokyo Olympics at risk. In the long run, in any case, there will be a boom for outdoor sports including climbing and local exploration. Possibly, there will be development of easier routes and bouldering, via Ferrata and possibly hiking with rappel stations, etc. At the same time, there will also be a boom for outdoor climbing gyms, especially in areas with poor outdoor possibilities.

Moonlander 8A+ by Matilda Sรถderlund
Matilda Sรถderlund, #6 in the Lead World Championship in 2012, reports on Insta that she has done Moonlander assist 8A+ in Nockeby near Stockholm. (c) barabells "I'm grateful for the opportunity to still be climbing outside and to (finally) discover the climbing (especially the bouldering) in my home area."

Jonathan Siegrist reports from Las Vegas
Jonathan Siegrist had just arrived in Italy where they planned to stay a month when they quickly had to return back home to Las Vegas. "All things considered, I feel very grateful. We have made some sacrifices, sure, but nothing compared to so many around the world. We are allowed to leave the house for groceries, important business, and exercise. Most of the climbing areas are closed (Red Rock, Mt Charleston, etc) so itโ€™s been a great opportunity for me to explore for new cliffs and more than anything Iโ€™ve been working on a lot of home building projects! For training I just do a series of one arm hangs (Iโ€™ve never done this before but because I donโ€™t have anything too fancy at home this is the best for me right now) also some Hangs with both hands like 2 finger etc. and some front levers and simple pull-ups. Right now I do simple training about 4-5 days a week."

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Pirmin Bertle reports three more 9a's in Frankenjura
Pirmin Bertle, who just did Pantera 9a, reports in a blog that he last year did three 9a's in Frankenjura; The Essential, Black Label and House of Shock. Asking him on Facebook how these four 9a's were possible he says, "No idea! Vegan living :)". In the "Shape with no reason" blog he tries to explain how he suddenly could do the crux of Pantera. "In addition to the perfect grip, most probably it is because I stopped to eat animals (and most of their products) that I did not raise myself and because I work physically quite a lot without being repetitive. Keeping weight, inflammation-tendency (milk) and other injuries low seem to be enough to keep a basic shape. At least after 20 years of climbing." One possible explanation is a bouldering wall in their garden but even so, due to the poor winter, he has not used it very much. "I don't "train" anymore for years now, means rock climbing only, despite for the last three years when I had a bouldering wall in the garden. I did short and intensive units or tries there in something hard with extended regeneration, to do something else in between. The highest possible analogy to rock projecting: Rock holds, rather not that steep inclination, outside conditions and depending on how intensively used my fingers are in that period, I build more athletic and less crimpy boulders. Before 100% days with normally three rest days, I use the wall for reactivation the day before and in between, e.g. together with the kids, for easy climbing."