19 April 2020

Pirmin Bertle reports three more 9a's in Frankenjura

Pirmin Bertle, who just did Pantera 9a, reports in a blog that he last year did three 9a's in Frankenjura; The Essential, Black Label and House of Shock. Asking him on Facebook how these four 9a's were possible he says, "No idea! Vegan living :)". In the "Shape with no reason" blog he tries to explain how he suddenly could do the crux of Pantera. "In addition to the perfect grip, most probably it is because I stopped to eat animals (and most of their products) that I did not raise myself and because I work physically quite a lot without being repetitive. Keeping weight, inflammation-tendency (milk) and other injuries low seem to be enough to keep a basic shape. At least after 20 years of climbing." One possible explanation is a bouldering wall in their garden but even so, due to the poor winter, he has not used it very much. "I don't "train" anymore for years now, means rock climbing only, despite for the last three years when I had a bouldering wall in the garden. I did short and intensive units or tries there in something hard with extended regeneration, to do something else in between. The highest possible analogy to rock projecting: Rock holds, rather not that steep inclination, outside conditions and depending on how intensively used my fingers are in that period, I build more athletic and less crimpy boulders. Before 100% days with normally three rest days, I use the wall for reactivation the day before and in between, e.g. together with the kids, for easy climbing."
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