
19 April 2020
Pirmin Bertle reports three more 9a's in Frankenjura
Pirmin Bertle, who just did Pantera 9a, reports in a blog that he last year did three 9a's in Frankenjura; The Essential, Black Label and House of Shock. Asking him on Facebook how these four 9a's were possible he says, "No idea! Vegan living :)". In the "Shape with no reason" blog he tries to explain how he suddenly could do the crux of Pantera.
"In addition to the perfect grip, most probably it is because I stopped to eat animals (and most of their products) that I did not raise myself and because I work physically quite a lot without being repetitive. Keeping weight, inflammation-tendency (milk) and other injuries low seem to be enough to keep a basic shape. At least after 20 years of climbing."
One possible explanation is a bouldering wall in their garden but even so, due to the poor winter, he has not used it very much. "I don't "train" anymore for years now, means rock climbing only, despite for the last three years when I had a bouldering wall in the garden. I did short and intensive units or tries there in something hard with extended regeneration, to do something else in between. The highest possible analogy to rock projecting: Rock holds, rather not that steep inclination, outside conditions and depending on how intensively used my fingers are in that period, I build more athletic and less crimpy boulders. Before 100% days with normally three rest days, I use the wall for reactivation the day before and in between, e.g. together with the kids, for easy climbing."
16 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
28 November 2022
Heim nach Afrika 9a by Martina Demmel
Martina Demmel, who started climbing only in 2017, has done Heim nach Afrika (9a) in Kochel. It is a link-up that first Pirmin Bertle reported the FA, calling iโฆ
29 July 2010
Second 9a for Pirmin Bertle
Pirmin Bertle has done Cabane au Canada, 9a in Rawyl. "One of the best hard lines in Switzerland. Pure endurance on 80 hard moves in one big overhanging slab. With 19 tries (at least for me :) a quite fast ascent." Pirmin is #9 in the ranking game.
8 December 2010
Two 8c+ by Pirmin Bertle
Pirmin Bertle has confirmed two 8c+ at Kalymnos, Inshallah and Gora Guta Gutarak which Adam Ondra onsighted last year and gave 8c. "Five weeks of fucked up conditions and then, on the last day, wind from the north. And suddenly everything felt different :)ย
Two 8c+ on the very same day!!!"
Related news
28 November 2022
Heim nach Afrika 9a by Martina Demmel
Martina Demmel, who started climbing only in 2017, has done Heim nach Afrika (9a) in Kochel. It is a link-up that first Pirmin Bertle reported the FA, calling iโฆ
29 July 2010
Second 9a for Pirmin Bertle
Pirmin Bertle has done Cabane au Canada, 9a in Rawyl. "One of the best hard lines in Switzerland. Pure endurance on 80 hard moves in one big overhanging slab. With 19 tries (at least for me :) a quite fast ascent." Pirmin is #9 in the ranking game.
8 December 2010
Two 8c+ by Pirmin Bertle
Pirmin Bertle has confirmed two 8c+ at Kalymnos, Inshallah and Gora Guta Gutarak which Adam Ondra onsighted last year and gave 8c. "Five weeks of fucked up conditions and then, on the last day, wind from the north. And suddenly everything felt different :)ย
Two 8c+ on the very same day!!!"
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ




