NEWS

Two 8c+' by Stefano Ghisolfi after 60 days at home
Stefano Ghisolfi is out from his strict quarantine showing great form directly doing two 8c+' in Arco, X-Large and Zauberfee. "We spent 2 months at home and to start climbing outside was great! A bit weird tough, but I got the feeling again immediately. I'm not surprised because I trained hard and I know my garage is very good to train strength and endurance. In the next few weeks I hope it will be the same as these days. There are very few people at the crag and we can climb safely." On his Insta the Italian has shared some more thoughts on how we all can be safer at the crags.

Some climbers just like to climb hard and to make progress. At the same time, almost all the very best climbers truly enjoy climbing no matter of the grade, meaning they have a very wide and solid base of their grade pyramid. Getting out of a lockdown is a perfect period to just climb more easy routes than normal. If you still want to set goals, try to do as many routes on a day or fill up the base of your pyramid with 15 6a's or 7a 's etc. A simple rule is that the factor of the pyramid should be around 3 - 4 for each grade, before adding one more level. Here is an example of a solid pyramid between 7b to 8a ready to start projecting an 8a+. 8a = 3, 7c+ = 9, 7c = 27, 7b+ = 81, 7b = 243 Another way of seeing when going for 8a+ it is based on Time Comparison Grading. 8a = 5 days, 7c+ = 1 day, 7c = second go, 7b+ = onsight

95 % want to get back to the gyms
Over 20 000 climbers have answered the Vertical-Life, "Restart Climbing Survey". Overall, 95 percent of the climbers would like to climb at the gym again, for 60 percent specific measures are a prerequisite for this. Only 5 percent would not feel safe. The majority of climbers would agree with the proposed measures. There is a high willingness to adhere to hand hygiene measures (98%), to have body temperature measured at the entrance (91%), to refrain from using changing rooms (88%) and showers (75%), and to agree to fewer routes and boulders (81%). A large proportion would also be willing to wear a mask (65%). However, only half of all climbers would want to climb in a restricted, assigned area.

Four 8c's incl. Roof Warrior 2nd go by Martina Demmel (18)
Martina Demmel has directly after the lockdown done her first four 8c's including a second go ascent of Rood Warrior in Frankenjura. (c) Moritz Welt "My boyfriend lives in Erlangen in the Frankenjura where I stayed as well as the last few weeks and we only went to the not that crowded crags and only the closest to his home. So now it's already allowed again to move around in Germany but not in groups, so if you rather go to the not that famous areas and take care of yourself it's not forbidden to go rockclimbing. Just a few minutes away from my home, I also spent some time climbing together with family members over the last weeks. The next weeks, I'm gonna spent some more time in Franken and at my local crags because lots of projects are waiting there and hopefully the borders to at least Austria gonna open soon for the hot summer days." More comments on her ascents, also including four 8b+', on her Insta. Just before the crises, the 18-year-old was in Spain where she did 12 second go ascents of 8a+ to 8b+ routes.

Siesta 8c by Noรฉ Looser (13)
Noรฉ Looser has done her first 8c, Siesta in Vรคttis, "after three weeks of fun on the route. The 35 m and very steep routes includes many dynamic and long moves challenging the 148 cm tall and 13-year-old. She lives in eastern Switzerland and started rock climbing at age nine. Two years later she did Skyline 8b in Bรผrs, Austria. This was followed by alpine multi-pitch routes up to 7c+ in the Kreuzbergen and Rรคtikon. Last month she did Euphorie 8b+in Voralpsee in just a few attempts. How have you been able to stay fit during the lockdown and what is next? (asking her father) In the lockdown, she did strength training, stretching, jogging, yoga, and trained on the self-built campus board. Next, she wants to climb, climb, and climb again.

Bionic Commando 8c+ by Melissa Le Neve
Melissa Le Neve reports on Insta that she has done Christian Bindhammer's Bionic Commando 8c+ in Bavaria and it took some 7 sessions. (c) Fabi Buhl "I was lucky to be in Bavaria (Germany) and there was no lockdown like in France, Spain or Italy. Only some social restrictions and hygiene measures. There is plenty of crags so the important thing is to keep social distancing and if somebody is already trying the route you want to try you bail and you find a plan b. Melissa is one of the best multi-discipline climber having also done 8B+ boulder, 8b+ MP. The 30-year-old finished her competition career in 2016 being #3 in the Boulder World Cup. Lately she has started up a work as a trainer and currently, she trains some high profile climbers like Matilda Sรถderlund. "Well Iโ€™m keen to train motivated persons to reach their goals outside or in competition. I believe that training is like a chess game where you need to bet on a pass and see the result. With Matilda it works super well so far!"

Pierre Dรฉlas, running Fanatic Climbing, reports in french that based on a rockfall accident in France 2010, the isurance compnay of the French federation has been ordered to pay 1.5 million to a climber. Because of this, the federation now disclaims its responsibility in climbing accidents. "Now the opinion of the federation is to forward the responsibility to local authorities like cities, departments or regions. The problem here is that the French federation has since the 80's written conventions with owners and local authorities saying they were assuming the risks. Note with this decision of the french federation the development and preservation of french crags seem unclear and worrying for the future. The rockclimbing community is anxious. In my article, I have given some possible perspectives. 1: The will of french federation forward responsibility to local authorities. 2: Change the law for having responsibility for the climber. 3: Having a deal between all federations for finding a solution. 4: Create a new organism for delivering climbing permits and insurance. 5: Witnessing situations in other countries and taking some influences. 6: As rock climber be less consumer and more actor. Be more responsible and act for rock preservation and development Pierre and the whole french climbing community see a risk that some private landowners now will close their crags as they do not want to take the responsibility for accidents due to rock falls or rusty bolts. It should be mentioned that in many parts of the world, like in Sweden, it is assumed that you climb on your own risk. The landowner has no responsibility for activities on their land just like when somebody is skiing or hiking on their land. However, when there are organized activities, it is the commercial company or the club that has the responsibility.