NEWS

Matt Fultz has done the second ascent of Daniel Woods' Everything Gneiss in Clear Creek Canyon suggesting an upgrade to 8C.

Steve McClure training advice #7 - Have Fun!
Steve McClure has spent part of his time in the quarantine by putting together some training advice for guys 45+, published on his Insta. The 49-year-old is the best climber in the world around 50 and says he has been in peak shape since 45+. At age 46, he did hist first 9b, last year he did his hardest ever trad onsight 8a and just the week before the lockdown he was in France onsighting a bunch of 8a+ and plenty of 8a. Training for old Folk. Part 7. Have fun Sounds a bit corny. But sometimes the fun element can be lost in search of numbers, and the joy harder to find as performance starts to slip. There is no doubt that for many of us numbers do count, and we measure ourselves by them. But take the pressure off. For nearly every climber in the world, no one else measures you by numbers. They donโ€™t really care. What they do care about is that you are happy and having fun. A joyful tick of a 7b is way better than a screaming fall off the last move of an 8a. Itโ€™s absolutely true we have to keep pushing hard; itโ€™s satisfying to be the best we can be and to know we worked hard to get there. Know that, know you are your best, donโ€™t allow numbers to judge. All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given to us. We donโ€™t have as much time as we used to have. Fill those days on the crag with fun and good memories (but of course still cranking hard after all the training we did..) All these training notes will be combined over the next few days and on my website Steve-McClurse.com. There will be extra detail, and working with rockcity climbing, Iโ€™ve answered a load of questions. If you have additional questions ask away here and Iโ€™ll answer them in the article.

With 16 male and female selected for the Tokyo Olympics, here is a prediction. It should be noted that as there are four female and three male Speed experts, most likely the speed qualification winner will make it to the Top-8 final. Then mathematically, even if they are dead last in Boulder and Lead, they will end up as #4. 1. Adam Ondra - Janja Garnbret 2. Tomoa Narasaki - Miho Nonaka 3. Jakob Schubert - Shauna Coxsey 4. Bassa Mawem - Yiling Song 5. Alex Megos - Akiyo Noguchi 6. Kai Harada - Petra Klingler 7. Alberto Gines Lopez - Julia Chanourdie 8. Jan Hojer - Jessica Pilz It should be mentioned as there are some athletes qualifying from Africa and Oceania, Speed experts like Anouck Jaubert and Rishat Khaibullin could be #15 in Lead and Bouldering with a little bit of luck. This means that if they are runner-up in the Speed qualification, they could anyhow make it to the Top-8. With two Speed experts in the final, the fastest could in fact get the bronze.

"Spring is here and it's the best time to check your climbing bag and do some cleaning. Rope is a textile product and it's possible to wash it in the washing machine or by hand. It not only removes all the dirt but it also prolongs the life span of the rope. The water temperature should be set between 30 - 40ยฐC and instead of common washing powder a special rope cleaner should be used for safe washing without changes in rope parameters. The rope should be dried properly in a dark place protected from direct sunshine and away from heaters." Full article.

Vertical-Life continues to present articles in regards Covid-19 and gyms management. In their latest paper they discuss how gyms could open and presents new software tools like; Integrated counter widget for front desk staff, Boulderado POS integration and Check-in and Check-out and Slot booking etc. They are also working on Free Gym profiles. "Weโ€™ve published an additional 2,000 basic gym profiles to our Vertical-Life app, enabling climbers across the world to quickly and easily find information about their local gym (live on iOS, Android to follow soon). Get in touch and sign up for access to update your basic gym profile, including opening times, links to crowdfunding, and other campaigns. In response to Covid-19, we are rolling out a series of features, available to all gyms, to support reopening and to facilitate clear communication between climbers and gyms." VL wants to add that hopefully, the restrictions will not have to be applied for indoor climbing but in case itยดs the only way to open up the gyms in some countries, these solutions could help to bring gyms to open up faster.

Michael Piccolruaz has made his dream qualifying to the Olympics in Tokyo 2021. "Well, it means a lot to me!!! I've obviously been dreaming about this for a long time now! Even though it has a slightly bitter aftertaste because I know that this comes unexpectedly now and maybe it's not the fairest solution, especially for my teammates who were still training hard and were willing to fight for the last spot at the European champs, I'm really happy I got this spot! Every athlete knows the amount of work there was and is put behind this, and too few get lucky enough to be rewarded eventually. So I' am just super glad to be one of those few!"

Weisse Rose 9a by Jakob Schubert
Jakob Schubert reports on Insta that he has made the second repeat, after Adam Ondra, of Alex Huber's Weisse Rose in Schleier Wasserfalle from 1994. "Austria is making good progress fighting the virus and consequently we are allowed to climb outside again. Still keeping it to a minimum but it feels so good to crimp hard on rock after all the pull ups and backyard training." Huber called it XI (8c+/9a) at the time but Adam said it was a solid 9a and maybe even 9a+. (c) Alpsolut pictures

Willing to start indoor climbing again if there were some potential limitations?
Assist your gym in planning for their future reopening by providing them with valuable feedback regarding possible health and social distancing measures. Let your voice be heard and support your gym in creating a safe environment for climbing once again! A free 1-month access to Vertical-Life premium will be awarded to every participant for sharing your thoughts.

Doing scary high balls, solo climbing or trad ascents with poor gear are part of some climbers' lifestyle. Luckily very seldom such climbing accidents occur. As rock climbing is starting up in some parts of the world at the same time as there is high pressure in the hospitals, it is recommended to minimize risks during climbing. In any case, publishing videos showing dangerous climbing might create a backlash for the whole climbing community in the current situation, as it might look irresponsible for the mainstream media. Experienced climbers could also keep an eye on outdoor beginners that try will try out rock climbing for the first time. Rock climbing should be a relatively safe sport when it comes to social distancing etc. However, we also need to show authorities and the public that it is safe in regards to injuries, etc.