2 May 2020

Olympic prediction #10

With 16 male and female selected for the Tokyo Olympics, here is a prediction. It should be noted that as there are four female and three male Speed experts, most likely the speed qualification winner will make it to the Top-8 final. Then mathematically, even if they are dead last in Boulder and Lead, they will end up as #4. 1. Adam Ondra - Janja Garnbret 2. Tomoa Narasaki - Miho Nonaka 3. Jakob Schubert - Shauna Coxsey 4. Bassa Mawem - Yiling Song 5. Alex Megos - Akiyo Noguchi 6. Kai Harada - Petra Klingler 7. Alberto Gines Lopez - Julia Chanourdie 8. Jan Hojer - Jessica Pilz It should be mentioned as there are some athletes qualifying from Africa and Oceania, Speed experts like Anouck Jaubert and Rishat Khaibullin could be #15 in Lead and Bouldering with a little bit of luck. This means that if they are runner-up in the Speed qualification, they could anyhow make it to the Top-8. With two Speed experts in the final, the fastest could in fact get the bronze.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ