2 May 2020
Olympic prediction #10
With 16 male and female selected for the Tokyo Olympics, here is a prediction. It should be noted that as there are four female and three male Speed experts, most likely the speed qualification winner will make it to the Top-8 final. Then mathematically, even if they are dead last in Boulder and Lead, they will end up as #4.
1. Adam Ondra - Janja Garnbret
2. Tomoa Narasaki - Miho Nonaka
3. Jakob Schubert - Shauna Coxsey
4. Bassa Mawem - Yiling Song
5. Alex Megos - Akiyo Noguchi
6. Kai Harada - Petra Klingler
7. Alberto Gines Lopez - Julia Chanourdie
8. Jan Hojer - Jessica Pilz
It should be mentioned as there are some athletes qualifying from Africa and Oceania, Speed experts like Anouck Jaubert and Rishat Khaibullin could be #15 in Lead and Bouldering with a little bit of luck. This means that if they are runner-up in the Speed qualification, they could anyhow make it to the Top-8. With two Speed experts in the final, the fastest could in fact get the bronze.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


