NEWS

Paul Robinson, who recently did his #1 000 boulder 8A and harder, has done his 22nd 8C, Traffic in Coal Creek Bloc. "Traffic is a long boulder that does the crux of Jeremiah and then climbs right into some really small crimps and a hard shoulder move. Then around the corner and finishes on a 7A+. The whole climb is around 20 moves long andis quite pumpy. You can add in 3 more hard moves by starting on jeremiah low which is a hard project and will be a tough line when someone completes it."

Don Pedro 8c+ by Stefan Scherz (18)
Stefan Scherz, who won the Lead and Combined Euro Champ and was runner-up in Boulder last year, has done Don Pedro 8c+ in Niederthai in just two sessions.

So three 8c+'s and your first 9a since the lockdown, how was that possible?
During the lockdown, I tried to focus on doing some power and strength exercises, which helped a lot to stay fit or even become fitter. When the lockdown ended and the gym was still closed, I only had the chance to go climb outside. Since then, every time I went rock climbing I felt better and better. Iโ€™ve been rock climbing pretty much every day except 2 rest days, for 1 month straight.

What about indoors and competition training?
My first day back in the gym was at the end of May. Since then, Iโ€™ve been training a lot indoors with the national team. Yet, I try to spend as much time as I can outdoors on the rock. The first national competitions are at the beginning of June with speed and bouldering, later in August, there will be a lead comp, where Iโ€™m already looking forward to.

Nordic Flower 8c by Maria Davies Sandbu
Maria Davies Sandbu, who also has done 16 boulders 8A and 8A+, has done her third 8c, Nordic Flower in Flatanger. (c) Martin Mobrรฅten

"Me and my husband Martin were supposed to have 5 months of travelling (before i start my internship as a junior doctor). We were in Spain when the corona-situation really escalated and traveled back to Norway quickly. We built a home-wall in my parent's garage which came very useful as the winter turned out to be very long. In late April we started going to Flatanger for climbing, but it was super cold in the beginning. I was quite hesitant to try hard stuff, and it was only 2 weeks ago I started trying Nordic Flower extension. It turned out to go down quite quickly. I did the first line 2 years ago, and "Nordic Plumber" last year which shares the same start. So I knew the beginning really well. I think I worked the extension part for 3 or 4 days before I started having goes from the start, and then it went down 3.go."

Mysterio 8B by Caroline Sinno
Caroline Sinno, who has done four 8B Traverses in Fontainebleu, has done her second 8B boulder there, Mysterio. "Always in love with nature and beautiful boulders in the forest of Fontainebleau. With lots of passion and attachment to this proud line ยซ Mysterio ยป I took advantage of the last ยซ conditions ยป of the year and climbed it. It is a short and intense line graded 8B with only 4 hard movements opened by Olivier Lebreton. It goes crescendo with a tricky last dynamic movement. It is very remote in the forest and I really enjoyed the scenery there. I have done another movement from the initial version so makes it a harder version?"

How were you able to train during the lockdown and what are your summer plans?
Not a lot of training. I was a bit depressed at first. I train very little physically, instead lots of stretching and proprioception and also some elastic bands. Summer plans: climb in Font on some easier climbs and maybe a hard traverse until July and then in august Rodellar.

What is proprioception?
On a Swiss ball, eyes closed, repeating the movements in my mind. A bit like Adam Ondra and elastic bands for resistance.


Biographie 9a+ by Seb Bouin
Seb Bouin has done the 19th ascent of Chris Sharma's classical 9a+ test-piece in Cรฉรผse, Biographie. Impressively, this was his first "real" trip to the mecca not including some weekends several years ago. (c) Sam Biรฉ

With a total of 45 routes 9a to 9b+, out of which 12 FA's, the French is among the best climbers in the world. More info to come...

Souvenirs du pic by Thรฉo Blass (10)
Thรฉo Blass has done Souvenirs du pic 8c in Saint Guilhem le Desertin. Last summer Theo toproped a variation of the route (combining an easier start with the second half) graded 8b. This year he worked on the lower section for about 7-8 sessions. The not yet 140 cm tall is the youngest climber ever to have reached 8c. Picture by his father Vladimir Arnaoudov who gives us the amazing story.

"Theo started climbing more regularly when he was 8 (he was climbing before, but quite irregularly). His progression was quite interesting: it took him a few months of projecting to send his first 6b+ (on top rope) and then he progressed from 6b+ to 8b in less than a year and a half. His training is a bit chaotic and highly dependent on motivation, time of the year and availability of other more fun activities (such as mountain biking, skiing or building a shack in the garden). At the beginning of the lockdown he trained a lot at our small home bouldering wall but then he lost motivation and did not train for a month.

From the dad's perspective, there are two key takeaways from the experience of belaying, watching, encouraging, counseling, supporting and occasionally arguing with Theo about beta: (1) adult grades are a bit of a nonsense when it comes to kids - two of the hardest moves on the route for Theo are among the easiest for adults - so not worth getting too excited about grades (especially when you are under 1m40); (2) even if fear, frustration and failure are part of the game, climbing kids of the world, enjoy every moment of climbing, projecting, trying hard, sending and try to have fun, and confidence - the future belongs to you."