NEWS

Circo ibรฉrico 9a/+ by Alex Garriga
Alex Garriga, who previoulsy has done ten 9a's and one 9a+, seems to be back in great shape after the lockdown having done Circo Ibรฉrico 9a/+ in Cuenca. (c) Mario Martinez Munoz

The 22-year-old reports also on his Insta that he has done two 8c+/9a FA's in Cuenca; Copadrina and Marillion where the latter goes through a 20 meter roof forcing him to do many one-arm pull-ups, as shown in the video.
How can you explain being in so good shape after the lockdown?

I trained a lot during the quarantine. I was not allowed to leave my home. I built a small climbing wall and a crimp board at home and TRX. I trained like seven hours a day and rested only after four days. It was like two months of hard training at home and one month of outdoor bouldering before getting back on the rope.

Green in the Face 8B by Michaela Kiersch
Michaela Kiersch reports on Insta that she has done Green in the Face 8B in Castle Rocks and in went down during the first session. The 152 cm, who was #18 in her last Boulder WC in 2018, has been one of the leading rock climbers in the world in the last few years in spite of finishing her University studies and now doing doctoral students.

How can you explain being in such peak performance with your hectic life?
Since the gyms have been closed Iโ€™ve been climbing outside in the evenings after school and over the weekends. I follow a really detailed schedule with school, climbing, and mental breaks to keep balance in my life. I think that challenging myself academically makes me work harder in the other areas of my life too.

Mistero 9a by Giorgio Tomatis (17)
Giorgio Tomatis, who did his first 8c+ in 2017 and who was #3 in the Euro Championships last year among the 16-year-old's, has done his second 9a, Mistero in Andonno.

โ€It was graded 8c but after the break nobody had been able to climb it in the last 20 years. Trying it, I broke another hold making the route even more difficult. It is a very intense route of 40 movements with an uncomfortable rest. I had a lot of fun trying it. Itโ€™s a very fun climb and it took me a month to close it.โ€

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Panonoramix et les cyclopes FA by Oriane Bertone (15)
Oriane Bertone, #2 in the female Bouldering ranking game, has done the FA of Panonoramix et les cyclopes 8c+ in St Lรฉger. โ€Incredible connexion between "Panonoramix" (8c) of Antoine Maire end the third hard section of "Le Mur des Cyclopes" (8b/+). I pre-clipped first two quickdraws because of the dangerous and hard start. Logically it could be 8c+... to be confirmed.โ€

Stage Divers 8B by Marine Thevenet
Marine Thevenet, #7 in the Boulder WC in 2014, reports on Insta that she has done the third ascent of Stage Divers 8B in just four sessions. It was opened by Tony Lamiche in 2005 and (c) Clement Lechaptois got the first repeat last month. Previously, Marine has done some 40 boulders 8A and harder.

"The first session I only did the stand start (7B) and tried to find the holds of the sit start; the 2nd session I tried to keep the position but I was unable to do a single move! In the 3rd session I did All the moves; I did some good links and that was the first time that I thought it could be doable. So the following friday, after work, I managed to climb the boulder during a night session."

How did you train and stay motivated during the lockdown? I rested a lot! And then I did a lot of stretching and smartboarding! I tried to focus on my weakness to take advantage of this period ; It was a little bit hard to put on my climbing shoes again, but after two or three sessions it was ok!

ร€ contre courant 9a FA by Loic Zehani (18)
Loic Zehani, who previously has done 18 routes 9a to 9b, has done the FA of ร€ contre courant 9a in Orgon. "It is an old 8b bolted by my father over 15 years ago, which had chipped holds. I noticed that it would be possible to pass without these artificial holds by shifting the line a little. With the agreement of my father, I filled all the chipped holds and that gave a very pretty 9a (or 9a/a +), almost completely natural but two at the very start. First, there is a really hard section of ten movements approx 8A+ on small holds in a steep overhang (with a hard-clipping in the middle!) Then directly after a dozen hard movements. It is the most beautiful and natural hard route in this sector. It took me 3 or 4 sessions to do the movements and 2 more to do the route."