NEWS

Social Distancing 8A+ flash by Zander Waller (16)
Zander Waller, who was #3 in the Pan Am Olympic qualifications, has flashed Social Distancing 8A+ in 11 mile. The 16-year-old has also done three 8B's, six 8A+' and one 8c route during the last month which he mainly spent around RMNP. The pic is from Honor Amongst Thieves 8A+.

"The flash was relatively unexpected, but the climb itself may have been soft. It was not really my style so who knows. The top out ended up being the crux because it was the middle of the night and I had no headlamp, and I was very close to falling. There was no beta for the top out though. I am excited to try much harder boulders in the near future."

Halupca 1979 9a by Mina Markovic
Mina Markovic, who has won 22 World Cups out of which two in Bouldering, has done her second 9a, Halupca 1979 in Osp/Misja Pec. Starting from 2010, she was 2 - 1 - 1 - 2 - 2 - 1, in the overall World Cup. Last year, she had her worst season although finishing #4 in the European Championship. After the lockdown with canceled competitions, workshops, and psychology lectures, she has had more free time to spend outside and go climbing.

"Firsty I have (re)climbed a lot of other routes in Misja pec, getting a good base. With temperatures getting higher I was mostly more or less 'limited' to Osp's cave, but as routes are pretty long I started to miss 'action' and powerful moves. And also, I got a desire to try something harder and not just 'tick' a project in a couple of tries. In the beginning, I thought Halupca could be a nice 'training' route, to do some hard moves outside (as I was not motivated to spend days alone in a gym). Natural rock and spend days outside in fresh air was a big motivator :) Soon, I got the feeling it could be possible but I believe no one took me seriously.

It was like a new feeling. I was just so happy to be climbing outside again trying to push my limit together with my friends. I remember when I started to climb at age ten. You know all dedicated climbers are special and I immediately found friends with the same mentality eager to do challenges etc. Having spent like 15 years with a strong focus on competitions, this spring, it was like getting back to the roots and I am so much looking forward traveling to different crags this summer and challange myself on onsights.


We also talked about her experiences of the weakened immune system at the end of last year, where no specifics reason was found, but (suggested) restoring some weight and gain back heath was the best investment in the life she could do. "Maybe more about the psychological and physical aspects of climbing, competitions, and nutrition later on."

"10 - 12 days to send. Three seconds to get down. Stupid sport :)!

Austria Climbing Series
The semi final will be live streamed with a link here on 8a tomorrow starting at 9.00. More Info

8 July 2020

Women semifinal

Don't get too greedy 8B by Katie Lamb
Katie Lamb has done her second 8B in just a week, Don't get too greedy in RMNP. During the last two weeks, the 22-year-old has done two 8A+' and two 8B's and she is #12 in the monthly ranking game also including the male.

"It took me 4 sessions before I found my grip of life and destiny on the crux pinch. I was able to fly free on the crux move, and make a top. My friends were once again key to the send, a bunch of legends. They kept the angry marmot rodents away from the boulder and played My Song when I needed it most. In the end, I just needed to be less greedy :)"

Brooke Raboutou, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, has done her fifth 8B during the last two months, Nuthin but sunshine in RMNP. Yesterday she also did The Centaur 8A+. In the monthly 8a ranking game, the 19-year-old is #1 and among the male, she is #10.