Laura Rogora explains the Ali Hulk sit extension total 9b she just did over just five sessions. "In total around 110 moves, starting from a sit start and then 30+ meter roof climbing, that finishes with crimps in a traverse." (c) Marco Iacono

It was Dani Andrada who first found the Ali Baba cave in Rodellar in 2005 where he put up numerous boulders and routes until he linked many of them establishing Ali Hulk sit extension 9b, in 2007. At that time Andrada had built a portable wagon so the spotters could move his crash pads around in the cave on wheels. Later, the local cleaning patrol put it on fire as they thought climbers were sleeping on the ground.

In 2018, Piotr Schab added the "extra extension" total, from the stand start, adding a + to the 9a due to the finishing crimp traverse. Then in 2019, Jonathan Flor made the FA of the total extension from the original sit start as a 9b which Jorge Diaz Rullo repeated the day after.

Kind of complicated but soon there will be a Rogora video out and here is her explanation of the hybrid boulder route. "The first 50 moves are a boulder above crash pads. The hardest section is in the middle of the roof on small underclings and crimps, then there is the first big rest where the route with the rope starts. I started climbing with the harness and the belayer gave me the rope on the rest. I think it took at least 15 minutes to climb it.

The most important thing for me was the resting positions. There are two big rest in the route and you have to take time to recover in order to climb the next section. The mental aspect was harder then in any other route for me. When I realize that I could do it I got stressed and having only one week to send it made it even harder."

Thomas Saluz, a.k.a Bodhi Climbing, and his family are going to court on August 6th in order to keep their rights to continue to run their Magic Wood camping, hotel and restaurant. For some reason, their contract has been cancelled by the local authorities. A Petition has been launched to show the support from the climbing community. Magic Wood is one of the most recognized bouldering areas in the world, with 42 000+ ascents in the 8a data base, and the campground including the effort of the family also with access etc, have played an important role serving thousand of climbers for more than a decade.

Stefano Carnati, who the other week did Jungle Boogie 9a+ in Céüse, has made the FA of Moon Landing 9a in Passo della Presolana. "The whole line following the limestone pillar from the bottom to the left top. 50 moves of pumpy climbing into a 15 moves final traverse to the left on bad crimps and poor footholds. Huge thanks to Luca Bana and Berni Rivadossi for showing me this awesome crag and giving me the chance to try this outstanding project! I go for 9a, hard!"

Iziar Martinez, who did her first 8b+ ten days ago, has done her first 8c, Florida in Rodellar and it just took five sessions. (c) Pablo Beni "I climb since I was a kid with my parents, as I grew I started to train seriously three years ago. Now I train un Geko Aventuras, my father's rocodromo. My motivation is being the best climber that I can be and my family and trainer help me to reach this goal. One project I have is to do an 8a onsight."

Mathieu Bouyoud has done his 22nd 9a, via the FA of Je vais bien tout va bien exit 9a in La Balme. In the 8a ranking game, the French is #11. "It starts by Je vais bien 8c+ and finish by the exit of Tout va bien exit 8b. It's 50 m long route in a big overhang on the left part of the cave. Now I would like to do the extension by Tout va bien 8c, maybe in total 9a+. I bolted this routes 5 years ago."

Matt Fult, who had 8B+ as personal best until 15 months ago, has done his eleventh 8C, Blade Runner in RMNP. In the 8a ranking game, the 29-year-old is the new #3. (c) Kevin Takahashi Smith

"12 sessions from start to finish. The physical difficulty is only one aspect of what made Blade Runner so tough for me. Weather, humidity, and skin all played huge roles in coming together for the send. The crux “button” hold would either feel amazing or impossible, all based on those factors!" As reported on Insta he sometimes did have to set the alarm at 3am in order to get better conditions.

Here is the All Time High Female ranking
based on the Top-10 hardest flashes.
1. Alex Puccio 10 330 2. Megan Mascarenas 10 230 3. Karoline Sinnhuber 9 930 4. Nina Williams 9 680 5. Oriane Bertone 9 480.

Adam Ondra has done the FA of another two 9a's; Mia in Vranjača and Genius Loci in Paklenica . The latter adds a cruxy start to Il Maratoneta, the famous 8b+ put up by Manolo in 1987, which Ondra had onsighted a couple days earlier. Mia: "Amazing 50m line in an amazing cave close to Paklenica. Hard to say about the grade, after 25m of 8a/a+ you get into resistant section with weird crux which I think suits my style, even though after having worked the moves it is max 8c+. Possibly 8c+/9a. 3rd go."

The 27-year-old has now done 167 routes 9a to 9c. The runner up is Alex Megos with around 75. When it comes to 8b+ or harder onsight, Adam has 175 and here he is even more superior. In the 8a data base, Patxi Usobiaga is #2 with 40 onsights 8b+ or harder.