Laura Rogora comments her 9b

Wednesday, 29 July

Laura Rogora explains the Ali Hulk sit extension total 9b she just did over just five sessions. "In total around 110 moves, starting from a sit start and then 30+ meter roof climbing, that finishes with crimps in a traverse." (c) Marco Iacono

It was Dani Andrada who first found the Ali Baba cave in Rodellar in 2005 where he put up numerous boulders and routes until he linked many of them establishing Ali Hulk sit extension 9b, in 2007. At that time Andrada had built a portable wagon so the spotters could move his crash pads around in the cave on wheels. Later, the local cleaning patrol put it on fire as they thought climbers were sleeping on the ground.

In 2018, Piotr Schab added the "extra extension" total, from the stand start, adding a + to the 9a due to the finishing crimp traverse. Then in 2019, Jonathan Flor made the FA of the total extension from the original sit start as a 9b which Jorge Diaz Rullo repeated the day after.

Kind of complicated but soon there will be a Rogora video out and here is her explanation of the hybrid boulder route. "The first 50 moves are a boulder above crash pads. The hardest section is in the middle of the roof on small underclings and crimps, then there is the first big rest where the route with the rope starts. I started climbing with the harness and the belayer gave me the rope on the rest. I think it took at least 15 minutes to climb it.

The most important thing for me was the resting positions. There are two big rest in the route and you have to take time to recover in order to climb the next section. The mental aspect was harder then in any other route for me. When I realize that I could do it I got stressed and having only one week to send it made it even harder."

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