Haruki Uemura has completed Pornographie (9a) in Céüse after five days of projecting. The Japanese climber won gold at the Youth World Championships in 2021 and, two years later, reached the finals in Briançon. (c) Sam M.S. - Sichert Media Solutions

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing at age five and begun competing at ten. I’m 21 now so I have been competing for a long time, but starting this year, I’m focusing on rock climbing.

Did you send any other routes during your trip?
Nothing! Pockets are my weakness, so Céüse feels really tough for me.

What is your next plan?
I’m planning to challenge some hard routes on Japanese rock.

Alex Megos, who one month ago placed 17th in the Chamonix WC, has spent the last two weeks in a mostly rainy Flatanger trying Jakob Schubert’s B.I.G. (9c). As a side project, he sent Kangaroo's Limb (9a+) before the weather forecast forced him to move. The 32-year-old has previously sent three 9b+ routes, and with his outstanding onsight ticklist, he is a strong contender, widely regarded as the second-best overall climber in the world after Adam Ondra. The double Olympian has also made around ten podiums in different World Cups and Championships. (c) Mark Postle

Can you tell us more about the trip and the side project ascents?
Yeah it's been tough the last couple of weeks with the weather... I tried Kangaroos briefly last year (for 5min) and didn't want to get into it. This year I thought it's smart to not only try one thing so I opened a couple of side projects. One was Kangaroos Limb, which was nice to try, because it's the only short hard route in the cave 😅😂

So for the last 10 days I tried Kangaroos maybe 3-4 days for a coupe of times in the evening until it happened two days ago.

Where did you move to escape the rain and how long do you plan to stay in Norway?
We are in Trondheim right now. Hell is great!! 😍 I love it there. I don't have an open end trip so I only have about 2 more weeks.

Can you tell us more about the progress on the 9c project?
I could try BIG a few times in the last couple of weeks, but not as much as I would have wanted to. It's an incredible route! Ready good moves and very fun. It's very hard too. It'll need a lot more time and work for me, especially all the kneebar rests 😬

Katherine Choong, once a competition climber and now recognized as one of the world’s top female multi-pitch climbers, has completed Piz dal Nas (8b) at Titris (8a).

”On August 10th, I linked all 12 pitches of this unique multi-pitch route (7a, 6b, 6c, 6b+, 6a, 7b+, 6c+, 7b+, 8b, 8b, 7b, 8a+) located on the Titlis North Face (Switzerland), bolted (2008-2009) and first freed by Matthias Trottmann in 2010, later repeated by Jernej Kruder. So this is the 3rd ascent and first female ascent.

It was an epic journey: many days spent unlocking the cruxes of pitches 9 & 10 (both graded 8b), getting caught in a violent storm halfway up on our first day in the route, long runouts in the lower pitches that drained us mentally and physically, endless hikes up and down the long approach… and that final overhanging exposed pitch, the "nose" because of its shape, 500 m above the void 🤩!

After a finger injury last spring and not feeling in my best shape, I doubted I could hold such tiny crimps or climb such a long and demanding route. But that’s the magic of climbing: sometimes everything clicks. With Jim’s unwavering support, another dream became reality. Massive thanks to Jim, who came so close to sending despite the heat and sweaty hands : we’ll be back for you! Huge respect to Matthias for opening this line from the ground and then sending it. What a performance! I led every pitch in the 8th grade, we switched the lead for the others, and I spent a total of 10 days on the route.”

Andy Lamb, with four 8C+’ to his name, has completed Monkey Wedding (8C) as well as flashed Moon shadow (8B) and The Guest List (8B) in Rocklands.

Can you tell us more about your trip?
South Africa was great! I was only there 3 weeks, but got to do a ton of lines I wanted to try. Still a ton of climbs I didn't get to try like Amandla (8B+) (skin didn't feel good enough at the end of the trip) and Speed of Sound (8B+)(closed this year). Definitely want to come back next summer to get on these and maybe start the process on some bigger projects.

What is next?
I'll be at home for the next few months, got a few projects I'm psyched to finish up. Then will hopefully do a Switzerland and / or Font trip this winter.

Dylan Chuat has sent us his full story sending Move (9b) in Flatanger, two weeks ago. (c) Alex Guerin

”Before talking about Move, you have to understand that the process started long before I arrived in Flatanger at the beginning of the summer to try it. In fact, the beginning of this story goes back 3 years, when I set myself the goal of trying a really hard route, something that would push me to my limits. Until then, I had done 9a, always quite quickly. A bit later, I climbed 9a+ in just a few sessions, but never really felt at my limit. So I turned my eyes to 9b.

In Switzerland, close to home, it’s simple: there were no routes of that grade, and there still aren’t today. So I had to leave home for long trips, organize everything, and work to finance them by saving money aside. That’s when the troubles started. In 2022, I tore a pulley just before leaving for Saint Léger. In 2023, I had appendicitis with complications after only two days on Fight or Flight (9b) in Oliana. In 2024, at Pic Saint Loup, I thought I had found the right route with ACL (9b), but a single move at the start drove me crazy and kept me from giving it a serious try.

All these difficult moments, far from being just some kind of bad karma, were nothing less than the beginning of the process that eventually led me to send Move. They taught me a lot and, above all, I now understand that these struggles are part of the game when you set big goals. Even if sometimes it feels like you’re back to square one, you have to overcome them without losing the flame and motivation.

Alongside work (since I had to finance the trip), with Henri Lelievre's support and the help of those around me, I trained and prepared for this trip to Flatanger with energy fueled by all those past setbacks. And to be honest, when I arrived there, I really thought bad luck was striking again: in Norway, during my whole stay, only a few weeks were actually climbable because of the weather… Luckily, I kept believing!

Three years ago, I first discovered Flatanger. Back then, I climbed most of the 8c routes as well as Thor’s Hammer. Since that trip, the idea of coming back has never left my mind. For me, Flatanger is a perfect crag: it feels like the most beautiful bouldering sections all gathered on fifty meters of overhang. Without a doubt, it’s my favorite rock in the world.

This year, I decided it was time to take the next step. For a long time, I’ve wanted to try a 9b or harder route — a line that would truly push me to my limits. Until now, I had only tried climbs where I knew, from the very first attempt, that I would eventually succeed. But Move felt different: it’s a logical, natural line that perfectly fits my vision of climbing. At this level, a 100% natural 9b or harder route is incredibly rare — almost nonexistent today — so choosing Move was obvious to me.

For my first real big climbing trip, I had planned three full months in Norway. Conditions were far from easy: almost a whole month was un-climbable due to heatwaves. I used that time to visit the Lofoten Islands with my girlfriend and to work as a route setter in Oslo. The weather was a constant challenge, but I never lost hope.

At the beginning, I quickly felt close to sending the route. But I soon realized I lacked the specific endurance required for the cave, and that long break away from Flatanger felt endless. At times, I even felt like I was wasting precious time. Still, once I came back, progress was fast: strong links, two very close redpoint attempts falling on the last crux… and finally, on my third serious try, everything clicked, and I sent the route.

I remember clipping the chains vividly. For a few seconds, I wasn’t sure if I had really done the route or if it was just a long link. I didn’t scream right away — I was in a pure flow state, carried entirely by the moment. But this time, it was real.

For me, this ascent is more than just a sporting achievement: it’s the realization of years of dreams, missed trips, injuries, and doubts. It also feels like the first step of a new chapter. I want to go further, to take on more lines at this level and beyond. To make that possible, I’ll need to free up more time and hopefully find the right support. But I believe this climb marks the beginning of a long journey ahead.”

Lilli Kiesgen has had some great days in Gottardo, flashing Scary Christmas (8A) and redpointing The Witch (8B) (personal 8A+ grade) as well as Kingda Ka (8B). ”Really liked it! The movements around the Undercling depends on ones height. The taller you are the easyer it gets. For 1,65m it feels like 8B. Oh and really hard for the shoes - needed two pairs.”

Can you tell us more about the trip and explain the shoe issuse?
I flashed the 8A first day of the trip. I didn’t really plan to do a flash try, but when I saw the boulder I thought it might suit my style really well - a Mantle followed by some small crimps and small foothold. In the climb I had no expectations and improvised at the top Sequence so I was surprised when I stood on top of the boulder😅.

I also had my first session on Kingda Ka later that day. It felt possible, but I couldn’t figure out one of the last moves at the top. When you are small it’s hard to bring the body high enough to use the Undercling. This particular move can change the difficulty of the Boulder a lot depending on your hight. Another problem for me was, that one foothold was so sharp, that it made a hole in the sole of my shoe. So I had to change the shoes a lot. I didn’t wanted to focus on just one boulder, so I also tried the Witch. Lucia and I tried it together and figured out a good beta for our hight.

On the last day I wanted to try both boulders, in the morning I went to the Witch and could climb it in the first go of the day- but unfortunately I dabbed the pad… Afterwards I got stressed and it took me quite some tries to get it done. In the afternoon we went to Kingda Ka. It felt hard that day, so I started to change my shoes again. Two pairs of Solutions got destroyed on the way which made it not only a physical but also a financial challenge for me 😂 I changed between different shoes forth and back and eventually it somehow worked out and I sent my first 8B.

Lee Sung Su, who climbed eight 8C’s and harder boulders last year after retiring from competitions, sent Burden of Dreams (9A) in May, twice. "I decided to go for Burden and did about 10 sessions on the replica beforehand, which helped me get a pretty good feel for the moves. I actually sent the real Burden on my 9th session, but when I reviewed the footage back at the accommodation, I thought it might cause some controversy. So I went back on my 10th session and sent it again without a T-shirt. I wanted a perfect, clean send."

Brooke Raboutou, who this spring became the first female to send an 9b+ by doing Excalibur, reports on Instagram that she has done Pornographie (9a) in Céüse.

”This time, I had a different plan. I didn’t want to get stuck only on Biographie. I wanted to explore new routes and taste the variety this cliff has to offer. I was psyched to send “Pornographie” pretty quickly and get to play on some bigger dream lines. But eventually, Biographie pulled me back in. Along with it came that familiar cycle of hope and heartbreak that comes from putting your all into a project.”

Brooke, the Paris Olympic silver medalist, is equally distinguished for her remarkable bouldering achievements, which include multiple 8B+ ascents, an 8C, and an 8A+ flash.

Satone Yoshida, runner-up in the World Cup before the last event in Slovenia in three weeks, has signed up to Vertical-Life by logging Biographie (9a+) in Céüse. The hardest routes the 21-year-old had previously done were two 8c+’s, also during this trip. (c) Sam M.S. - Sichert Media Solutions

”It’s a legendary line, I can’t find the best word to explain this feeling for now. The crux move was okay for me, but I fell 3 times right after passed crux to reach the big jug. It’s not a one move hard route.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and going rock climbing just before the last WC?
At this timing, with the last World Cup Koper in early September and the World Championships in Seoul ahead, taking on a two-week trip to Ceüse was a pretty risky challenge for me. Since everyone’s focused on training for coming comps, when I mentioned this plan, the reactions weren’t too positive.

But I believed that sending Biographie, this special line that’s been on my mind since last year, would give me extra momentum heading into the comps!

Of course, it didn’t all go as planned. On the #session2 , I linked it with just one take and on the #session3 , I passed the crux from the bottom. But then the nightmare started It got super hot🥵, storm with lightning rolled in⛈️, some days I couldn’t give a try properly, when I finally felt good, I’d fall just passed the crux, I kept getting stuck just one move away from the send…. With the last day approaching, I waited for prime conditions before sunset yesterday, and on try #13, I finally sent it!!

This line definitely made me grow as a climber. And big respect to @chris_sharma for the FA Huge thanks for supporting me through this tough challenge @ueharu__ 🤝🏻

What is your plan during this winter?
I’ll keep pushing myself on rocks! Alter the comp season though haha.

Dylan Chuat has done Move (9b) in Flatanger. Previously this summer, the 24-year-old has sent three 9a’s in the big cave and he is #4 in the ranking game. (c) Alexis Guerin

” My biggest project so far!! For the first time, I was finally able to try a hard route and go all the way through my process without injuries or setbacks! Despite bad conditions — and even days that were totally unclimbable — I managed to find the right weather windows to put in some good burns… and finally the victorious one! It was a real battle, with so much support behind me, and in the end a pure and unique climbing moment. I’m super happy that Move became my first at this grade — it’s definitely not known as the easiest 😈! Honestly, it felt much harder than its neighbor Change (same grade), which I got to check out once during a heatwave. Can’t wait to come back and try more lines in the cave!”