19 August 2025
Dylan Chuatโs full story sending Move (9b)
Dylan Chuat has sent us his full story sending Move (9b) in Flatanger, two weeks ago. (c) Alex Guerin
โBefore talking about Move, you have to understand that the process started long before I arrived in Flatanger at the beginning of the summer to try it. In fact, the beginning of this story goes back 3 years, when I set myself the goal of trying a really hard route, something that would push me to my limits. Until then, I had done 9a, always quite quickly. A bit later, I climbed 9a+ in just a few sessions, but never really felt at my limit. So I turned my eyes to 9b.
In Switzerland, close to home, itโs simple: there were no routes of that grade, and there still arenโt today. So I had to leave home for long trips, organize everything, and work to finance them by saving money aside. Thatโs when the troubles started. In 2022, I tore a pulley just before leaving for Saint Lรฉger. In 2023, I had appendicitis with complications after only two days on Fight or Flight (9b) in Oliana. In 2024, at Pic Saint Loup, I thought I had found the right route with ACL (9b), but a single move at the start drove me crazy and kept me from giving it a serious try.
All these difficult moments, far from being just some kind of bad karma, were nothing less than the beginning of the process that eventually led me to send Move. They taught me a lot and, above all, I now understand that these struggles are part of the game when you set big goals. Even if sometimes it feels like youโre back to square one, you have to overcome them without losing the flame and motivation.
Alongside work (since I had to finance the trip), with Henri Lelievre's support and the help of those around me, I trained and prepared for this trip to Flatanger with energy fueled by all those past setbacks. And to be honest, when I arrived there, I really thought bad luck was striking again: in Norway, during my whole stay, only a few weeks were actually climbable because of the weatherโฆ Luckily, I kept believing!
Three years ago, I first discovered Flatanger. Back then, I climbed most of the 8c routes as well as Thorโs Hammer. Since that trip, the idea of coming back has never left my mind. For me, Flatanger is a perfect crag: it feels like the most beautiful bouldering sections all gathered on fifty meters of overhang. Without a doubt, itโs my favorite rock in the world.
This year, I decided it was time to take the next step. For a long time, Iโve wanted to try a 9b or harder route โ a line that would truly push me to my limits. Until now, I had only tried climbs where I knew, from the very first attempt, that I would eventually succeed. But Move felt different: itโs a logical, natural line that perfectly fits my vision of climbing. At this level, a 100% natural 9b or harder route is incredibly rare โ almost nonexistent today โ so choosing Move was obvious to me.
For my first real big climbing trip, I had planned three full months in Norway. Conditions were far from easy: almost a whole month was un-climbable due to heatwaves. I used that time to visit the Lofoten Islands with my girlfriend and to work as a route setter in Oslo. The weather was a constant challenge, but I never lost hope.
At the beginning, I quickly felt close to sending the route. But I soon realized I lacked the specific endurance required for the cave, and that long break away from Flatanger felt endless. At times, I even felt like I was wasting precious time. Still, once I came back, progress was fast: strong links, two very close redpoint attempts falling on the last cruxโฆ and finally, on my third serious try, everything clicked, and I sent the route.
I remember clipping the chains vividly. For a few seconds, I wasnโt sure if I had really done the route or if it was just a long link. I didnโt scream right away โ I was in a pure flow state, carried entirely by the moment. But this time, it was real.
For me, this ascent is more than just a sporting achievement: itโs the realization of years of dreams, missed trips, injuries, and doubts. It also feels like the first step of a new chapter. I want to go further, to take on more lines at this level and beyond. To make that possible, Iโll need to free up more time and hopefully find the right support. But I believe this climb marks the beginning of a long journey ahead.โ
โBefore talking about Move, you have to understand that the process started long before I arrived in Flatanger at the beginning of the summer to try it. In fact, the beginning of this story goes back 3 years, when I set myself the goal of trying a really hard route, something that would push me to my limits. Until then, I had done 9a, always quite quickly. A bit later, I climbed 9a+ in just a few sessions, but never really felt at my limit. So I turned my eyes to 9b.
In Switzerland, close to home, itโs simple: there were no routes of that grade, and there still arenโt today. So I had to leave home for long trips, organize everything, and work to finance them by saving money aside. Thatโs when the troubles started. In 2022, I tore a pulley just before leaving for Saint Lรฉger. In 2023, I had appendicitis with complications after only two days on Fight or Flight (9b) in Oliana. In 2024, at Pic Saint Loup, I thought I had found the right route with ACL (9b), but a single move at the start drove me crazy and kept me from giving it a serious try.
All these difficult moments, far from being just some kind of bad karma, were nothing less than the beginning of the process that eventually led me to send Move. They taught me a lot and, above all, I now understand that these struggles are part of the game when you set big goals. Even if sometimes it feels like youโre back to square one, you have to overcome them without losing the flame and motivation.
Alongside work (since I had to finance the trip), with Henri Lelievre's support and the help of those around me, I trained and prepared for this trip to Flatanger with energy fueled by all those past setbacks. And to be honest, when I arrived there, I really thought bad luck was striking again: in Norway, during my whole stay, only a few weeks were actually climbable because of the weatherโฆ Luckily, I kept believing!
Three years ago, I first discovered Flatanger. Back then, I climbed most of the 8c routes as well as Thorโs Hammer. Since that trip, the idea of coming back has never left my mind. For me, Flatanger is a perfect crag: it feels like the most beautiful bouldering sections all gathered on fifty meters of overhang. Without a doubt, itโs my favorite rock in the world.
This year, I decided it was time to take the next step. For a long time, Iโve wanted to try a 9b or harder route โ a line that would truly push me to my limits. Until now, I had only tried climbs where I knew, from the very first attempt, that I would eventually succeed. But Move felt different: itโs a logical, natural line that perfectly fits my vision of climbing. At this level, a 100% natural 9b or harder route is incredibly rare โ almost nonexistent today โ so choosing Move was obvious to me.
For my first real big climbing trip, I had planned three full months in Norway. Conditions were far from easy: almost a whole month was un-climbable due to heatwaves. I used that time to visit the Lofoten Islands with my girlfriend and to work as a route setter in Oslo. The weather was a constant challenge, but I never lost hope.
At the beginning, I quickly felt close to sending the route. But I soon realized I lacked the specific endurance required for the cave, and that long break away from Flatanger felt endless. At times, I even felt like I was wasting precious time. Still, once I came back, progress was fast: strong links, two very close redpoint attempts falling on the last cruxโฆ and finally, on my third serious try, everything clicked, and I sent the route.
I remember clipping the chains vividly. For a few seconds, I wasnโt sure if I had really done the route or if it was just a long link. I didnโt scream right away โ I was in a pure flow state, carried entirely by the moment. But this time, it was real.
For me, this ascent is more than just a sporting achievement: itโs the realization of years of dreams, missed trips, injuries, and doubts. It also feels like the first step of a new chapter. I want to go further, to take on more lines at this level and beyond. To make that possible, Iโll need to free up more time and hopefully find the right support. But I believe this climb marks the beginning of a long journey ahead.โ
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