With more gym climbers getting outside this year, it is important that all we experienced climbers take some safety responsibility. Last week, I was climbing alongside some outdoor beginners and one thing I told them was to repeat commandos. Once I get to the anchor and say "Take!", I think it is much better to repeat this instead of the belayer just saying "OK".

If the crag is crowded, it just might be that one guy screams "Slack!" ore or less the same time and another climber screams "Take!" If unlucky, one belayer can take in rope at the same time the climber wanted some slack creating possibly a fall or a situation with uncertainty.

Other safety problems I have witnessed often this year is top-ropeing directly in the clip in, or thread the rope in just one anchor ring or trying to top-rope from an anchor two routes to the right. Another issue I think should be avoided is to scream instructions to an uncertain climber having done a back-clip. It is much better to just let the climber hang in the rope and fix it later rather than to unclip and clip again. From a good safety point, at least in Sweden, it seems like half of the new generation climbers use a helmet. Do you have any other remarks that could improve safety?

Elan Jonas McRae, who was #12 in the Arco World Cup in 2017, has done his first 9a+, Sacrifice in Echo Canyon. It was bolted by Evan Hau who got the first repeat this summer after Adam Ondra's FA in 2018.

"The route has a lot of subtle complexities and for me, the easiest part was actually climbing it. It is always wet in the bottom crux so it’s necessary to dry the holds before each attempt and often times it’s just too wet to climb. It is also a big commitment just getting to the cliff as it is straight up a mountain for 75 minutes. I started working the route last summer and put in about 2 weeks of effort before injuring my knee on a heal hook down low on the route. My first few sessions were with Evan Hau and he really helped me get psyched to try it early on. The route was very wet last season however so most days were just spent trying the dry different holds.

This year, I avoided Sacrifice for most of the summer in order to avoid re-injuring my knee but was eventually drawn back in. Progress was quick and I sent it after a few days! On the day I climbed it, the route was the most wet it’s been all season after a heavy rain storm."

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done the FA of Las meninas R2 9a+/b in Rodellar. It is an extension to a 9a+ FA he did two weeks ago. In total, the 20-year-old has now done 29 routes 9a and harder which put him close to the All Time Top-10 list. In the 8a ranking game, based on his ascents the last twelve months, he is #1.

Due to recently discovered Aboriginal heritage in Grampians, Taipan Wall, Spurt Wall and a section of Bundaleer have been given a "Temporary Protection Zone" with no public access permitted. Taipan and Spurt Walls are the two most popular crags in Grampians in the 8a data base and part of the sport climbing history in Australia. More info

Simon Carter, a local famous photographer, comments on Insta,"...a despicable move by the Victorian government and Parks Victoria in-particular... Parks Victoria have claimed that they consulted with climbers groups about this, that is an(other) absolute lie."

Over the years, many climbs have been given offensive and abusive names by the first ascender that later have been spread to guide books and databases. It is about time that such climbs are renamed especially when climbing is getting mainstream and more children are getting outside. First of all the FA should be given a chance to rename his climb but if this does not happen, the local community should try to get together with the topo producer and start the process. There are thousands of bad names out there that give us climbers bad reputation.

1. Ai Mori (16) - Hidemasa Nishida (17)
2. Akiyo Noguchi - Satone Yoshida (16)
3. Miu Kakizaki - Shuta Tanaka
Interesting is that Tomoa Narasaki was fourth beaten by Satone Yoshida who never has done any World Cup. Miu Kakizaki is also a new name on the scene. There are still no climbers from Japan scheduled to compete in the Briancon World Cup.