17 August 2020
Repeat commando instead of "Take!" - Ok!
With more gym climbers getting outside this year, it is important that all we experienced climbers take some safety responsibility. Last week, I was climbing alongside some outdoor beginners and one thing I told them was to repeat commandos. Once I get to the anchor and say "Take!", I think it is much better to repeat this instead of the belayer just saying "OK".
If the crag is crowded, it just might be that one guy screams "Slack!" ore or less the same time and another climber screams "Take!" If unlucky, one belayer can take in rope at the same time the climber wanted some slack creating possibly a fall or a situation with uncertainty.
Other safety problems I have witnessed often this year is top-ropeing directly in the clip in, or thread the rope in just one anchor ring or trying to top-rope from an anchor two routes to the right. Another issue I think should be avoided is to scream instructions to an uncertain climber having done a back-clip. It is much better to just let the climber hang in the rope and fix it later rather than to unclip and clip again. From a good safety point, at least in Sweden, it seems like half of the new generation climbers use a helmet. Do you have any other remarks that could improve safety?
If the crag is crowded, it just might be that one guy screams "Slack!" ore or less the same time and another climber screams "Take!" If unlucky, one belayer can take in rope at the same time the climber wanted some slack creating possibly a fall or a situation with uncertainty.
Other safety problems I have witnessed often this year is top-ropeing directly in the clip in, or thread the rope in just one anchor ring or trying to top-rope from an anchor two routes to the right. Another issue I think should be avoided is to scream instructions to an uncertain climber having done a back-clip. It is much better to just let the climber hang in the rope and fix it later rather than to unclip and clip again. From a good safety point, at least in Sweden, it seems like half of the new generation climbers use a helmet. Do you have any other remarks that could improve safety?
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


