NEWS

Le lรฉzard ร  pompe extension 8b+ flash by Oriane Bertone (15)
Oriane Bertone has flashed Le lรฉzard ร  pompe extension 8b+ in Roche de rame and last week she did L'extremacura 8c in Gravere. She got the beta by her little brother Max (13) who earlier this summer did three 8b+'. Earlier this summer the 15-year-old did her first 8c+ as well as her first 8C boulder. In the 8a ranking game, she is #4 in Lead and #3 in Boulder and consequently #1 overall.

They live in Reunion, a small island outside Madagascar but due to Covid-19, they have been caught in Europe since the start of the lockdown. Here is an interview from last month.

Nathaniel Coleman, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, skips 8C and does The Grand Illusian 8C+, in the middle of the night, with support from Drew Ruana.

Illusionist 9a by Stefano Carnati
Stefano Carnati has done his fourth 9a during the last ten weeks, The Illusionst 9a in Flatanger. "Perfect rock, crazy holds, bizarre movements. Definitely climbs way better than looks!!! Tried some days last year in the worst possible conditions and sent today after falling off the upper crux." (c) Marcello Bombardi

Seven 8A's and harder by Charlotte Andre in Magic Wood
Charlotte Andre, who earlier this summer flashed an 8A+ in Fontainebleau, reports on Insta that she during a hot and rainy 10 days trip to Magic Wood has done seven 8A's including Foxy Lady 8A, 2nd Go, and Jack's broken heart 8A+. Furthermore, the medical school student flashed four 7C's and The Right Hand of Darkness 7C+ (8A). (c) Vladek Zumr

"My trip was really nice! I managed to tick a lot of classic boulders. Next time I have to find a harder project ;-) but this time I wanted to discover the forest and all the ยซ jam ยป so I didnโ€™t try a really hard problem. Nevertheless I had a lot of fun and I enjoyed it a loooooot. I met many awesome people. Thatโ€™s why I love climbing to. Right now I have to switch to comp mode for the Tout ร  bloc. If there are some comps I will do the bouldering season."

Your flash record is really impressive. Any special strategy?
I most of the time try to make a good flash attempt but I'm not preparing myself really. I check one or two videos or sometimes I just ask the beta from the people who are trying the problem. I really take it easy and cool. If itโ€™s work itโ€™s cool, if not, no big deal.

You seem easy going?
Outside yes but in comps Iโ€™m really stressed. Climbing outside is just climbing for "pleasure" and fun. But as comps are my "main goal", itโ€™s harder for me to take a step back and just enjoy and do what Iโ€™m capable of.

What is your training background
Three years ago I had to stop the comps because the first year of medicine school is really hard in France. I studied almost 12h/day from September to May. I could climb once a week for maximum 45min and that was all. Then I succeed my exams and the year after I started to train again and during the last two years I have been training very hard also during the lockdown. Iโ€™ve done a lot of physical training because itโ€™s a big weakness for me :-). Iโ€™m doing a lot of super short training session like 30 minutes. I train mostly alone because where I live there is not a lot of strong climbers. I was super excited for the World Cups. I was ready and super motivated but unfortunaltey all the comps were cancelled because of the COVID. Consequently I started to climb outside. I went a bit to the local crag and then one week in Font and now the Magic Wood trip.

Two 9a FAs by Iker Pou (43)
Iker Pou, who did Action Direct 9a in 2000 and has ever since been one of the best rock climbers out there especially in establishing new big walls up to 8c, continues to deliver. After having trained, together with his brother Eneko, hard during the lockdown, "Dominated, push-ups, abdominals, etc. combined with the roller (bicycle) at home", the 43-year-old came out in excellent shape, making the FA of Free Full 9a and La Ware 9a. The latter is 35 metres with old school action in the last ten moves including two dynos into one-finger pockets. ยฉHermanosPou

โ€œWe would have loved to go on an expedition now, as we did last year to the Peruvian Andes, but this is not going to be, we will have to reinvent ourselves at home, and strengthen the local economy and security. I think we will surprise with something very cool in one of the mountain ranges around us. There are still very interesting things to do here."

Lukas Mayerhofer strikes in Silvretta
Lukas Mayerhofer has during eight climbing days in Silvretta done 19 boulders 8A and harder including Anam Cara 8B+, which he did on his second session. In the picture, is More Shining 8B. Several videos on his Insta. "I tried to climb as many of the classics as possible but the skin management is pretty hard to handle in this area."