Seven 8A's and harder by Charlotte Andre in Magic Wood

Wednesday, 5 August

Charlotte Andre, who earlier this summer flashed an 8A+ in Fontainebleau, reports on Insta that she during a hot and rainy 10 days trip to Magic Wood has done seven 8A's including Foxy Lady 8A, 2nd Go, and Jack's broken heart 8A+. Furthermore, the medical school student flashed four 7C's and The Right Hand of Darkness 7C+ (8A). (c) Vladek Zumr

"My trip was really nice! I managed to tick a lot of classic boulders. Next time I have to find a harder project ;-) but this time I wanted to discover the forest and all the « jam » so I didn’t try a really hard problem. Nevertheless I had a lot of fun and I enjoyed it a loooooot. I met many awesome people. That’s why I love climbing to. Right now I have to switch to comp mode for the Tout à bloc. If there are some comps I will do the bouldering season."

Your flash record is really impressive. Any special strategy?
I most of the time try to make a good flash attempt but I'm not preparing myself really. I check one or two videos or sometimes I just ask the beta from the people who are trying the problem. I really take it easy and cool. If it’s work it’s cool, if not, no big deal.

You seem easy going?
Outside yes but in comps I’m really stressed. Climbing outside is just climbing for "pleasure" and fun. But as comps are my "main goal", it’s harder for me to take a step back and just enjoy and do what I’m capable of.

What is your training background
Three years ago I had to stop the comps because the first year of medicine school is really hard in France. I studied almost 12h/day from September to May. I could climb once a week for maximum 45min and that was all. Then I succeed my exams and the year after I started to train again and during the last two years I have been training very hard also during the lockdown. I’ve done a lot of physical training because it’s a big weakness for me :-). I’m doing a lot of super short training session like 30 minutes. I train mostly alone because where I live there is not a lot of strong climbers. I was super excited for the World Cups. I was ready and super motivated but unfortunaltey all the comps were cancelled because of the COVID. Consequently I started to climb outside. I went a bit to the local crag and then one week in Font and now the Magic Wood trip.

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