Maho Normand has done his second 8c+, San ku kai in Entraygues. Earlier this summer, the 145 cm tall did his first 8b onsight, Racing in the street in Rue de Masques. "San ku kai is a very physical route with large compression movements, I started to work this route at the start of the summer holidays and I had to put in about ten or fifteen sessions to be able to achieve this beautiful route in Entraygues. My next project is to make one more 8b onsight and to do an 8b+ flash."

Laura Rogora, who yesterday won the Briancon World Cup, reports on Insta that she has done La Prophétie des grenouilles 9a in Fournel and remarkable, she just needed three tries. In total, the 153 cm tall has now done 14 routes 8c+/9a and harder out of which five this summer including one 9b. (c) Ida Mutto

“I have to say that in qualification, I was quite nervous after such a long time without competitions and I controlled some of my steps may be too much,” says Ondra, who was the only one to top the first route and who top the second one together with the Austrian Jakob Schubert.

“The semi-finals route was not pleasant at all. There were a few question marks when it was not clear at all how to climb the section, where to put my hands, where to put my feet. Even so, I was much more confident and could enjoy the climbing much more,” explains Ondra his feelings about the route. Ondra eventually reached the same position as the Austrian Schubert, but the initial happiness was replaced by accusations of stepping on the bolt by the side of referees. “I was again accused of, as well as of the Olympic qualification in Japan, that I stepped on the bolt. Fortunately, our protest was accepted and it was confirmed, that I really didn’t stand on it,” comments Ondra this little drama. Despite the same result with Schubert, he advanced to the finals from the first place, due to better result from the qualification.

“I had a great time in the finals. The route was rather endurance one, there were not so many uncertain steps and sequences that were difficult to read. The route graduated with a really difficult endurance finish, which was mainly about the perfect physical form, that I think, was very good in recent weeks,” says Ondra. The final section was pretty hard, but Ondra will remember this unique atmosphere and applause of 5,000 fans for a long time. “The last meters were really dramatic and I got very tired there. I thought these were my last steps before falling, but fortunately, I was able to hold that tiny hold and clip the rope into the final quickdraw. It was a really beautiful experience when 5,000 spectators applauded me. I think I will remember this victory for a long time,” smiles Ondra just after the competition. (c) Petr Chodura

Adam Ondra has seen he video and commented it, saying that he does not think it is easier with this beta for him. "Great news is that the route is possible without dislocating the knee though, which makes the route much better!"

Alex Megos, #5 in the Briancon World Cup, has published a rather critical reports on Insta in regards the Briancon World Cup. The German questions the regulations for the athletes in comparison to have 5 000 people standing side by side. "Does it make sense to let the athletes warm up side by side without masks in the isolation area but then make them wear masks as soon as they enter an area where the public can see them?" Furthermore, he does not think it is fair to call it a World Cup when almost only Europeans could attend.

All in all this comp was not as fun as I was hoping it would be. If future comps look like this I'm not sure I want to continue.

It should be mentioned that the former athlete represent Jorg Verhoeven has also published a critical post on Facebook. "It seems like this is a desperate IFSC measure to satisfy sponsor contracts, and a risk to many not worth taking."

Laura Rogora, who just did her first 9b, won her first World Cup and actually she did not touch the top hold as she was strong enough to clip from the second last hold. Also Janja Garnbret topped it in good style, almost shaking and resting from all the last holds. Boulder expert Fanny Gibert was third. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

Interesting is that the 19-year-old Italian has done a four routes 9a to 9b this summer. In total, the 153 cm tall has now done 14 routes 8c+/9a and harder which is most by all female. Last year she qualified to Tokyo but in Lead she was just #14 overall, although she got the silver in the Euro Championships.

Adam Ondra created once again the perfect show by topping out the final route. As usual, he was almost running up the wall with ease beside the last two holds were he fought hard. Runner-up was Domen Skofic who got his first podium since he won once in 2018. Third was Jakob Schubert. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

After the final, there was a touching ceremony for Luce Douady who tragically died this summer at age 16, falling 150 meter from en exposed path. Last year she was the Youth Bouldering World Championship and she got the bronze in the European Championship in Lead for the seniors.

1. Adam Ondra 39+ : Laura Rogora 33
2. Jakob Schubert 39+ : Nina Arthaud 27
3. Alex Megos 36+ : Janja Garnbret 26+
4. Domen Skofic 33+ : Vita Lukan 26+
5. Mejdi Schalck (16) 32 : Tjasa Kalan 26+
Male results and Female results

It should be mentioned that Adam Ondra first appeared as #5 in the ranking after scoring 31. Anybody who has an idea why Ondra originally was scored eight hold less? Four Slovenian girls in Top-6. Rishat Khaibullin was #11 after yet another strong performance.

Matteo Reusa (12) has done his first 8c, 7 pm JP chaud in Gorges du Loup and big brother Michele (13) has done his second, Hot Chili-X. Their father, Iuri (46), who recently also did an 8c, comments;

"Sharing the passion for climbing with my children is a very beautiful thing. It allows us to spend a lot of time together and to visit many places and travel long distances. It's great to see them improve every day and it's fun to try the routes together. The good and the bad thing about climbing is that it takes up a lot of space and time in our lives. I think that as long as I see that they have fun climbing I will support them in their path. The climbing must be pure fun or else it just becomes a big frustration."

Matteo: I like competing. I won the Italian championship three times. This year I did the tout a bloc and finished second. Michele: I did it on my last try on the sixth and last day of our holiday. My goal is to do an 8c+ this year.