Adam Ondra has seen he video and commented it, saying that he does not think it is easier with this beta for him. "Great news is that the route is possible without dislocating the knee though, which makes the route much better!"

Alex Megos, #5 in the Briancon World Cup, has published a rather critical reports on Insta in regards the Briancon World Cup. The German questions the regulations for the athletes in comparison to have 5 000 people standing side by side. "Does it make sense to let the athletes warm up side by side without masks in the isolation area but then make them wear masks as soon as they enter an area where the public can see them?" Furthermore, he does not think it is fair to call it a World Cup when almost only Europeans could attend.

All in all this comp was not as fun as I was hoping it would be. If future comps look like this I'm not sure I want to continue.

It should be mentioned that the former athlete represent Jorg Verhoeven has also published a critical post on Facebook. "It seems like this is a desperate IFSC measure to satisfy sponsor contracts, and a risk to many not worth taking."

Laura Rogora, who just did her first 9b, won her first World Cup and actually she did not touch the top hold as she was strong enough to clip from the second last hold. Also Janja Garnbret topped it in good style, almost shaking and resting from all the last holds. Boulder expert Fanny Gibert was third. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

Interesting is that the 19-year-old Italian has done a four routes 9a to 9b this summer. In total, the 153 cm tall has now done 14 routes 8c+/9a and harder which is most by all female. Last year she qualified to Tokyo but in Lead she was just #14 overall, although she got the silver in the Euro Championships.

Adam Ondra created once again the perfect show by topping out the final route. As usual, he was almost running up the wall with ease beside the last two holds were he fought hard. Runner-up was Domen Skofic who got his first podium since he won once in 2018. Third was Jakob Schubert. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

After the final, there was a touching ceremony for Luce Douady who tragically died this summer at age 16, falling 150 meter from en exposed path. Last year she was the Youth Bouldering World Championship and she got the bronze in the European Championship in Lead for the seniors.

1. Adam Ondra 39+ : Laura Rogora 33
2. Jakob Schubert 39+ : Nina Arthaud 27
3. Alex Megos 36+ : Janja Garnbret 26+
4. Domen Skofic 33+ : Vita Lukan 26+
5. Mejdi Schalck (16) 32 : Tjasa Kalan 26+
Male results and Female results

It should be mentioned that Adam Ondra first appeared as #5 in the ranking after scoring 31. Anybody who has an idea why Ondra originally was scored eight hold less? Four Slovenian girls in Top-6. Rishat Khaibullin was #11 after yet another strong performance.

Matteo Reusa (12) has done his first 8c, 7 pm JP chaud in Gorges du Loup and big brother Michele (13) has done his second, Hot Chili-X. Their father, Iuri (46), who recently also did an 8c, comments;

"Sharing the passion for climbing with my children is a very beautiful thing. It allows us to spend a lot of time together and to visit many places and travel long distances. It's great to see them improve every day and it's fun to try the routes together. The good and the bad thing about climbing is that it takes up a lot of space and time in our lives. I think that as long as I see that they have fun climbing I will support them in their path. The climbing must be pure fun or else it just becomes a big frustration."

Matteo: I like competing. I won the Italian championship three times. This year I did the tout a bloc and finished second. Michele: I did it on my last try on the sixth and last day of our holiday. My goal is to do an 8c+ this year.

Alexander Rohr reports from the last most doing four 8c+' and two 9a's, out of which two FAs. In total the 24-year-old Swizz has now done 22 routes 8c+ and 9a with his last one knocking on the 9a+ door. More pics on Insta

"After having completed Adam Ondras's Transcription, 9a in Charmey, I quickly did El Molinero 8c+ in Gimmelwald, Les temps difficiles 8c+ in Soyhières as well as Le roi lézard 8c (+) in Jansegg. Then I switched focus to an old project in Gimmelwald. It starts with Surfers Paradise and then opts for the left exit. I thought it is harder than Wipeout. That is why it is called Knockout 8c+. The crux is right in front of the chains.

After that I moved to the old idea linking Jungfraumarathon, 9a into Gimmelexpress 8c+. It’s got one more bolt in-between to get to the last but hard ten meters of Gimmelexpress. You basically do the whole hard part of Jungfraumarathon without the last part which is around 7c+. Instead, you climb to the right and do the last part of Gimmelexpress. This part is the redpoint crux for Gimmelexpress too and would probably check in at 8b+. Short and very intense climbing. Two days before the successful attempt, I could repeat Jungfraumarathon three times in a day but I was still falling in the last hard move of the new link-up. I then took a restday. After that, I finally did it on the first go of the day."

The biggest sensation in the Briancon qualification was that Rishat Khaibullin was #6. The Kazakstanian will compete in Tokyo mainly due to his Speed result. Laura Rogora, Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra topped both routes.

Solveig Korherr has done her third 8c+, La Cabane au Paradis in Rawyl. The 22-year-old German is the new #1 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Jon Shen

"The route took me three days of work. On the first day, I wanted to check out the harder 9a „La Cabane au Canada“ but I also dogged the 8c+ Paradis exit. I managed all the moves to Canada but „La Cabane au Paradis“ seemed much more doable in the short time that we wanted to stay in this area. I had it down to a two-hang on my second day and managed to optimize some beta. On my third day, it was much cooler and I managed to tick this very cool line. Afterward, I checked out the lower boulder problem of the „Paradis Naturel“ 8b+ and also managed to pull a send together at the end of the day!"

What is your autumn plan?
We will continue our trip through Austria and I would like to do some harder multi pitch in the Verdon gorge and also check out La Ramirole.