Yannick Flohé, who last month became the first climber to flash an 8C boulder, has done the first repeat of Alex Megos’ Ratstaman Vibrations 9b/+ in Céüse. The German remarked that it was the hardest route he had ever attempted, adding that it deserved a slash upgrade after taking him 30 days across two seasons to complete the send. In ten days, he will compete in the final Lead World Cup in Koper, aiming to improve on his current sixth place in the rankings. (c) Rainer Eder

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I started trying this route more than a year ago, right after the OQS in Shanghai in May. My plan was to try Biographie, but it was too crowded, so I checked out Ratstaman and got addicted to the route on the very first day. The route is so unique and really different from the usual Ceüse climbing style. The beginning is pure bouldering with a low-percentage crux after 26 moves. The first part was never a problem, and I had some promising tries, getting to the final crux within just a few sessions. I had high expectations to send quickly but slowly realized that it is a completely different game to do the last two crux moves from the ground.

I remembered Alex describing the route as a 12 moves 8b+ boulder with a bad rest into an 8c+ climb. Climbing an 8c+ with a medium pump did not sound too hard, but I would describe it more like a 9a route into an 8a boulder without any rest. It was a frustrating time, falling at the same two moves almost every try.

Conditions and skin also played a big role. I never had more than one or two good tries per day and had to take a rest day after every session. The main crux of the final boulder problem is a deadpoint move into a blocked three finger crimp, which I managed to stick twice last year. But catching that crimp perfectly and engaging the next move, another big move to a three finger pocket, turned out to be another problem from the ground.

It was a big rollercoaster dealing with weak fingers, cuts, and a lack of motivation. On my first trip this year in June, I felt stronger than the year before but only stuck that move once. On this trip, I started to feel more consistent and, for the first time, stuck the move in a way that made me believe I could reach the final hold. It took me another week to complete the last hard move and it felt so good.

The entire route is about 40 meters but the upper half is only 7c, so I made it to the top. I think this was my biggest mental challenge in climbing and I am really happy that I can finally move on to other projects in Ceüse.

What are your next plans
Koper [WC], World champs, Rockmaster and Excalibur. Maybe I will try Bibliographie next year. But first, I need to finish Excalibur. Climbing both of these routes has been my main goal this year in my new role as a lead climber.

Alex Megos has made the third ascent of Adam Ondra’s Iron Curtain (9b) at Flatanger. The second ascent was done by Seb Bouin, who suggested a personal grade of 9a+ as he used knee pads. (c) Benjamin Schelker

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The route brakes down into 3 cruxes (for me). Right after the anchor of the 7a first pitch you have a section of about 15 moves that are all hard. Then you have two good holds for resting, followed by the actual crux of the route, which is not too much of a crux anymore with the kneepad. After that you have the classic Flatanger pumpy finish with another hard section at the end.

Adam originally gave it 9b without kneepads and Seb gave it 9a+ with kneepads. At this point I think it should be mentioned how extraordinary Adam's ascents were back in the day (especially the years 2012 and 2013), climbing all those lines without kneepads and grading some of them "only" 9b. There are not many kneebars in Iron Curtain, but the one in the crux makes a huge difference and replaces the 8A+ boulder (that Adam did) with a 7C/+ boulder. Coming from the ground this makes it significantly easier of course.

Grade wise I really have a hard time with most routes here. I don't think people will find any crazy kneebar trickery on Iron Curtain, but maybe I'm too inexperienced to see the kneebar trickery 😅😂

Connor Herson repeated Magic Line (8c+) trad last year after having tried it for a year. Connor first gained international attention in 2018 when he climbed an 8c+ on his second attempt at the age of 14. That same year he repeated The Nose (8b+) and placed 11th at the Youth World Championship. He has since become recognized as one of the leading trad and big wall climbers worldwide.

”This fall, I returned to the valley with magic line as my primary objective. My first day I had a solo session toprope soloing on it, then the next day I decided to give a lead try, and somehow I sent it! It felt very flowy but insecure on the send go — I was executing the moves well, but I was very pumped and every foot placement felt like it was going to slip. I was confident I’d fall almost until the moment I clipped the chains!”

Eva Hammelmüller, who climbed three 9a’s last year, has finished her competition season and spent four weeks in Briançon, where she did eught routes graded 8b+ and harder as well as three 8a+ flashes. Her latest sends were: (c) Felix Mast

La prophétie des grenouilles (9a) (logging it as a hard 8c+): ”This route has it all!! Hard moves on crimps, heelhooks, toehooks, kneebars, a funky feet-first sequence and a spicy ending on slopy holds. Fell one time with the finishing jug in my hands, but could send it on my first go the next day. Definitely did feel the nerves after that go, as I knew it was possible, but there was still a lot of work (or about 100 moves) to do to make it to that point a second time. Really proud to have ticked this steep, long, and powerful line! Took me three days after to send it after having climbed ‘Une Arquée pour le criquet’, with which it shares the first few quickdraws. ”

Une Arquée pour le criquet (8c): ”This route is just one of a kind!! Steep, with a stunning background and powerful moves! Loved it!”

Asproman (8a+): ”What. An. Experience. Thanks Felix for taking me on this little adventure - first hard multipitch route for me, and wow did I enjoy it!! Led every pitch graded 7c and higher, OS all the 7c+ and sent the crux pitch on my 2nd try. Never expected the pitches to be that great to climb. The rock quality is superb and the whole wall is crazy steep. 8a/+”

Can you tell us more about the trip and your plans for the autumn?
I simply love France, not only for the climbing (which is, of course, worldclass), but also for the beautiful nature, the countless lakes, the delicious boulangeries, the language…

There are many good climbing areas around Briançon, where climbing in summer doesn’t feel like a constant heat-battle, and that’s why we decided to spend all our summer holidays here. We wanted to check out quite a few different climbing areas, and there are still so many more to discover! The best decision was to bring our bikes, so we could explore the mountains and countryside apart from climbing on our restdays.

I have decided to not do any more comps this season and to make the most of autumn by focusing on hard sport climbing projects and maybe a bit of multipitch climbing, too. I am very much looking forward to tackle these outdoor projects near home and to push my limit on hard sport climbs!

Radek Votocek, who previously the last five months has done his first five 9a’s, has climbed Frontman Deluxe (9a) in Allgäu. ” Very nice, powerful and creative route. My first 9a in Germany.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Frontman Deluxe starts with a power boulder, which is quite tricky and continues with an endurance descent to the top. It’s a nice straight route with a length of 10 m. The hardest part for me was figuring out how to overcome the lower crux of the route, then the climb went quite quickly. I would like to climb more difficult routes by Christian Bindhammer in the Allgäu.

Stefano Ghisolfi has during the same session sent Adularia (8C) and El Tony (8B+) in Gottardo. The Italian is one of the best route climber in the world with four 9b+’ to his name and he has also one six Lead WC’s. (c) Sara Grippo

Can you tell us more about the great sending day?
I tried Adularia for around 8 sessions, and the parts of El tony for a couple of days. Yesterday the goal was to check El tony and take some time off Adularia to let the skin grow. I tried a bit El tony and sent it fast, o I had time to have a good go on Adularia and sent that as well.

How do you like your new Boulder focus and what are your autumn plans?
It is fun and I have a lot more to do and so many new places I've never been. I'm competing in Koper and then focus on bouldering again this season.

Jonathan Siegrist has added Midnight Way (9a+) in Squamish to his impressive ticklist. The 39-year-old has climbed 90 routes graded 9a and harder, including ten up to 9b in the last 12 months. Didn’t think that it could get any better than Spirit Quest but this is it! 3rd ascent after Connor and Ben. Amazing crimping / technical testpiece. Unsure on the grade…” (c) Victoria Flanagan

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Midnight Way is an amazing granite testpiece route that was bolted and envisioned by my friend Tom Wright. The first half was FA’d by my good friend Mike Foley and then Connor Herson did the first ascent of the whole line last year. I absolutely loved climbing on this wall in years past so it was high on my list to try and repeat the line when I got back to Squamish. The wall is a bit of a mess with link ups but there’s no denying how amazing the quality is here.

What are the secrets peaking at 39?
I’m not sure I have any secrets! I think the outside world keeps telling me I should feel old but to be honest I just don’t. I have a lot of excellent role models - including my father who is 75 and still climbing strong - that remind me in many ways that age is a state of mind. I do prioritize sleep, I quit drinking, I eat well, and more than anything I just keep pushing as much as my body will allow. I’m hopeful I can keep it up for a good while longer!

Jules Marchaland has flashed Power of Now direct (8C) in Magic Wood, becoming only the second climber after Yannick Flohé to achieve this milestone. The 24-year-old, with ten boulders 8B+ or harder under his belt, eight of them in the past two weeks, has also onsighted two long 8b+ routes and redpointed a 9a during the same period. In total, the successful competition climber has completed more than 20 routes in the 9a to 9b range.

”When I came here, I felt this boulder was made for me. From the start, I had it in my sights, almost like an obsession. After long weeks of waiting for the right conditions, I finally decided to go for the flash. It was intimidating to prepare; no second chance, I had to give everything. I climbed exactly as I wanted to — every move was precise, in a perfect state of flow. When I topped out, I got that unique shiver! I still can’t fully believe it.”

The first ascentionist, Simon Lorenzi, comments; ”It was truly incredible to experience this with my friend and to support him in such a performance. I know him well, I’ve climbed a lot with him, so I wasn’t surprised. I estimated his chances at 70–80%. This is already a world-class achievement, and yet, I know he’s capable of even more.

This achievement carries even greater significance as it is part of a shared adventure: close friends Jules Marchaland and Simon Lorenzi have spent the past several weeks exploring Switzerland’s legendary boulders side by side. Their companionship, built on motivation and mutual support, embodies the essence of the climbing community, where friendship and the exchange of knowledge are key to pushing the boundaries of performance.

Lukas Sager, who did his first, out of five 9a’s, in 2022 at age 17, has repeated Pirmin Bertle’s Torture physique 2.0 (9a) in Gastlosen.

Can you give us an equally interesting write-up of the ascent as you did for your send of The Famous Gem?
Torture physique intégrale 9b❌ Torture physique 9a✅ Has the ninth grade in climbing become some kind of “normality”? Every week, we discover new ascents in the ninth grade on social media. For the general public, it might almost seem trivial. Even I’ve wondered if, nowadays, sending a 9th-grade route could be within reach of a larger number of climbers. Don’t get me wrong, it still requires dedication and countless hours of training… But should the ascent of a 9a still make the headlines of climbing media such as 8a.nu? I had a little smile when Jens Larssen contacted me to write about my last little Swiss trip. I’m not sure… but maybe I can also try to send a message at the same time. I’ll let you decide.

After spending July in France, I absolutely wanted to enjoy once more the beautiful landscapes of the Gastlosen — a place that means a lot to me — before moving to Austria, more precisely to Innsbruck. “The story of Torture Physique and the Gastlosen” Torture physique is located in the Gastlosen mountain range, in the canton of Fribourg, Switzerland. A discreet massif, unknown to the general public, but for me, it’s one of the most magical places I’ve been visiting for years. Here you find everything: multi-pitch routes, sport climbs, and even a few hidden boulders in the forest. A true little paradise for anyone who loves climbing off the beaten path.

Torture physique intégrale (9a+/b) was bolted by Philippe Steulet and Jean-Claude Bovard — two visionaries who imagined future testpieces in the massif — back in the late 80s. It was the first free climb in its entirety in 2013 by Adam Ondra. Since then, it has never seen a repeat. A line that is both mythical and intimidating for me, a real monster. Normally, I would pass by, but this time I told myself: “Let’s try something harder.”

“Torture physique 9a — the process” We only had six days of climbing in the Gastlosen because of unstable weather. It took me four days to finally send Torture physique 9a. I would have loved to do the extension, which (to me) has a more logical finish. But with the lack of time, rain, humidity, and short climbing windows, I couldn’t free the route in its entirety.

“A little description of the route for those interested” The route is 26 meters long in a 45° overhang, with a 6-meter pedestal at the start. Then around 20 meters of climbing on pockets. A proper forearm-pumping line, with two cruxes: one right after the pedestal, and another just below the anchor. And if you want to go for the (9a+/b) anchor, which is another 6 meters higher, you need to add around a 7C+ boulder without any real rest. Once again, big thanks to the TEAM — almost complete this time — Maria and Louis, and congrats for their own sends too!

Maël Grenier, who last year was eleventh at a Euro Cup, has done Shortcut (9a) in La Balme de Yenne .

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your climbing background?
I am a 21 years old French climber, located in Grenoble. I do mostly competition and I was in the French lead climbing team last year. I’ve done 2 finals in a row at the French championships and wore the French team shirt in Augsburg and Bologna European cups and Briançon World cup last year. I don’t have a large outdoor experience but I did my first 9a last week!

I had a difficult competing season because I failed to take my ticket back in the French lead climbing team. So, it was the perfect opportunity to take a step back and gain some outdoor experience this summer. I climbed a lot between Pic St Loup and La Balme de Yenne, near Grenoble where I live. One of my main objectives was to send « Beyond » 9a+ in Pic St Loup but this route is very hard and challenging for me and the heat wave didn’t help me. So, I decided to return in two of my local projects that I tried for the first time 2 years ago.

The first one is « To do list » 8c+ which begins with a hard boulder to a 20 crimpy moves and power endurance section. It ends with a long 20 meters 7c+ with good holds to the top of the cliff. It was a perfect route to continue to train during the summer period and I did it in 5 sessions this year.

The second one was « Shortcut » 9a, a totally different route which requests a lot of endurance. The route is located in the big cave of la Balme in a crazy 60° overhang with a lot of kneebars. It begins with « Dissidence », an 8c that I already did 3 years ago and continues with an 8b+ with long moves on quite good holds. This one took me 7 sessions in 3 weeks this year. The process was very cool because I had all the moves quickly and got better almost every try. It was still a mental battle because I broke a foothold on the last move of one of my last tries and also because my send go was my last possible try before leaving for holidays.

I’m so glad I climbed my two home projects this summer and sent my first 9a, even if it’s not the hardest. I’m motivated to start training for the next season and maybe to return in « Beyond » in early winter.