
7 October 2025
Stefano Carnati ticks Musa (9a)
Stefano Carnati, with seven routes 9a+ or 9b under his belt, has completed Musa (9a) in Covolo. โEasy start into a short, bouldery sequence on sharp edges and tensiony moves. Keeping the weekend sends coming!โ
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Covolo is an old italian crag with many routes, and the climbing style there is very bouldery, mostly fingery and overhanging lines. In recent years, Silvio Reffo has added several new routes up to 9a/+. I used to visit Covolo mostly during summer, when conditions were far from ideal. Last year, I finally returned a couple of times in April, with better conditions, and took a look at โSuper Pitโ and had a few tries on โMusaโ. Last weekend, I decided to focus first on โMusaโ before dedicating more time to โSuper Pitโ. โMusaโ is a short, powerful route that starts with an easier five-bolt intro leading into a very fingery crux, followed by an easier but still sustained finish. On Saturday, everything clicked, and I managed to send it. Super Pit still remains unrepeated, and I knew it would require more time and effort to piece together. Itโs definitely a project Iโd like to return to soon.
What are your autumn and winter plans?
Iโm about to submit my PhD thesis for revision, so before the final dissertation Iโll have a bit more time to spend outdoors. My plan is to finish off a few routes at Covolo. Iโve climbed one out of the five 9as there so far, so Iโd like to complete some of the others. As soon as the temperatures drop, I still have a few projects left in Ticino that Iโd like to get back on. Then, during the Christmas holidays, Iโm planning a trip to Spain, possibly to Margalef.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Covolo is an old italian crag with many routes, and the climbing style there is very bouldery, mostly fingery and overhanging lines. In recent years, Silvio Reffo has added several new routes up to 9a/+. I used to visit Covolo mostly during summer, when conditions were far from ideal. Last year, I finally returned a couple of times in April, with better conditions, and took a look at โSuper Pitโ and had a few tries on โMusaโ. Last weekend, I decided to focus first on โMusaโ before dedicating more time to โSuper Pitโ. โMusaโ is a short, powerful route that starts with an easier five-bolt intro leading into a very fingery crux, followed by an easier but still sustained finish. On Saturday, everything clicked, and I managed to send it. Super Pit still remains unrepeated, and I knew it would require more time and effort to piece together. Itโs definitely a project Iโd like to return to soon.
What are your autumn and winter plans?
Iโm about to submit my PhD thesis for revision, so before the final dissertation Iโll have a bit more time to spend outdoors. My plan is to finish off a few routes at Covolo. Iโve climbed one out of the five 9as there so far, so Iโd like to complete some of the others. As soon as the temperatures drop, I still have a few projects left in Ticino that Iโd like to get back on. Then, during the Christmas holidays, Iโm planning a trip to Spain, possibly to Margalef.
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