Aris T, aka Mr Kalymnos, reports on Facebook that he, together with Claude Idoux, Dimitris Titopoulos and Kostas Grafanakis, have started to develop a new "dream crag" 40 minutes north of Leonidio. "It is located 200m from the beach with just 5 min approach from the car. We plan to open 40 routes up to 55 m long. One of the best crags at grades up to 7a and it is in the shade after 12.00."

They hope to finish the work in 15 days. The bolts have been financed by Aris and the local authorities. Possibly, the new crag "Arcadia" will be included in the new topo for Leonidio that will be released later this autumn.

In regards Kalymno new routes have been opened lately and Heroes is a new big sector above Skalia. Aris says that although 80 % of the hotels and restaurants are open, there are like 20 - 30 % as many climbers as normal, mainly from Greece and Italy,

"We need to remain vigilant, but no talk of generalized lockdowns or anything like that. Climbers are just as welcoming as always, just they should take precautions. Indeed masks are required everywhere indoors. The staff at restaurants wear masks even outdoors."

Alex Garriga, has done his second 9a+ in 2020, Seta ibérica in Cuenca which Jorge Diaz-Rullo put up last year. (c) Alfonso Martinez

"It is a link-up of the hardest part of Seta negra (8c+) and the hardest part of Circo Iberico (9a/+). There is also a resistance traverse for connecting them."

William Bosi, who did his second 8C two weeks ago, has done his first 8B flash, Isla de Encanta in Trowbarrow quarry. (c) Band of Birds. (Thankfully it turns out our desire for funky lighting didn't seem to bother Will's ability to climb really hard problems really quickly).

”Isla de Encanta has been one of the lines which has caught my eye since I was a kid. When stopping off at Trowbarrow on my way back from Edinburgh, I was keen to give it a go. I waited until night for the best conditions and everything fell perfectly into place first time. It was a really short stay here but I am keen to come back up to the Lakes and explore some more areas soon!

It is a documentary film that will stay online next Monday from 9 to 24:00 Pm (Italy time) on the Ferrino website

Mina Markovic has been one of the best competition climbers during the last 15 years. In between 2010 - 2015, she had her peak having won 23 World Cups, including two in bouldering. During the last years, she has been studying psychology and biopsychology, which created interest and passion into understanding the consequences of low energy availability. A report of this knowledge in regards health prevention has been published, acknowledging and detecting low ea and disordered eating in sport, including climbing.

This work will soon be possible to access on her IG profile 😋 @miiiinam_psychilogy) as well as invitations for some webinars, workshops and other discussions around this topics in sport). The plan is to follow up and possibly give some further recommendations. (on biopsychology, nutritional psychology and mental health prevention in sport.

During the last season, she started to get some 'random' health issues. No 'real reason' was found but she was advised to gain some weight.

"After a while, it turned out, that my body was more than thankful to me for this step. 🙇‍♀️, my recovery and training gains become notable. But moreover, what means to me more, I feel free, relaxed and psyched for what life is offering to me. Enjoy all the special moment(s) and smile a lot on every single day! 🤣👌🤣 I would (maybe) prefer not to discuss my weight as I want to avoid those 'numbers' maybe to be taken into the wrong direction by some (especially young) climbers and triggers for some people, to actually achieve this weight ...which I believe is not best approach. But, I can easily mention, that I am at least up for about 4 kg since my comp shape. Climbing (maybe) better and stronger than ever 😋." More thoughts on her Insta.

This summer she has done two 9a's, Halupca 1979 and Waterworld (c) Luka Fonda. The pictures show her new more muscular shape. It should be mentioned that Urska Repusic, also from Slovenia, who won the Euro Boulder Championship last year, has just recently come forward with eating disorder thoughts on her Insta.

James Webb has logged his first routes since he did Dreamcatcher 9a back in 2018; three 8c's and Bad Girls Club 9a (8c+) in Wicked Cave. "Maybe 8C+? Felt pretty hard to me but then again, I'm not much for endurance routes. Rad line. Props to Joe for the vision and Matty for the FA."

"Jimmy" has been one of the leading boulderers the last ten years having done 292 boulders 8B and harder, out of which 14 flashes.

Mathieu Bouyoud, who previously has onsigthed 18 8b+', has onsighted another two as well as Bongo X 8C in Iluardia. "Big big fight! And it went crazy 😀. A good dose of physical resistance." In the onsight ranking game, the French is #3.

The Euro Youth Cup in Augsburg started yesterday and based on the first results, the route setters were right on target with just one top out in two categories and were few tied results. In total, some 120 youngsters participated. Here you can follow the live-streaming. The finals start at 15.00.
01: Eliska Adamovska CZE - Stefan Scherz AUT
03: Lucija Tarkus SLO - Mejdi Schalck FRA
05: Alexandra Totkova BUL - Luka Jerman SLO
Complete results

The most superior winner was Mejdi Schalck who first won both the qualification rounds and later won the final seven holds ahead of the runner up. Interesting is that eastern Europe got four titles and that five of the winners are 8a members.