NEWS

Cathy Wagner has during the last six weeks done eight 8a's and two 8a+;
Campagne in Arudy, "Small sector of great quality! Exceptional route very overhanging in a compact pebble! Climbing sections and knees to temporize, all I can do! In agony in the heat of Thursday, almost "easy" in the fall conditions of Saturday. In 3 days."

Quand la folie des hommes gronde in Revilla, "Magnificent route mainly on colos, and about twenty movements, which leans very strongly like all the others in this sector to the right. A saving knee separates the 2 sections for which I had to do my own way because Seb's methods are classy and beautiful to look at from the bottom but just ultra-physical ..! In a pure fight ๐Ÿคช to my 4th climb in 3 days."

The 55-year-old has now done 777 routes 8a to 8b, which should be most in the world for a female. Interestingly, Cathy has performed more or less the same during the last twenty years. It should also be noted that around one third of her ascents are done second go so there should still be room for an 8b+ personal best if she started to project one.

Super Power 8C/+ FA  by Aidan Roberts
Aidan Roberts reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Super Power 8C/+ at the LandStones, which is a sit start to Manpower 8A. He started trying it four years ago and in total it took him some nine sessions. (c) Sam Pratt

" In terms of pure difficulty and minimalism, this one takes the top spot and undoubtedly barges itโ€™s way to my hardest climb to date whilst also aligning perfectly with my style. Steep, body tension, wide moves and small crimps and, from my experience, possibly one of the best of itโ€™s style Iโ€™ve come across."

In regards why he did not go for 8C+, he comments Insta, "Iโ€™m not yet so willing to commit to this new territory with so little experience so, despite itโ€™s slightly lame nature, will propose the annoying slash grade of 8C/+. Perhaps some more clarity will arise once Iโ€™ve developed a little more experience of cutting edge climbing."

It should be noted that the 21-year-old one month ago did the FA of Outliers 8C at Trowbarrow and one week ago did the FA of Copperline 8B+ in the Coppermines. Five years ago he won a Euro Youth Cup and among the seniors, his best result is #19 in the World Cup.

New dream crag north of Leonidio
Aris T, aka Mr Kalymnos, reports on Facebook that he, together with Claude Idoux, Dimitris Titopoulos and Kostas Grafanakis, have started to develop a new "dream crag" 40 minutes north of Leonidio. "It is located 200m from the beach with just 5 min approach from the car. We plan to open 40 routes up to 55 m long. One of the best crags at grades up to 7a and it is in the shade after 12.00."

They hope to finish the work in 15 days. The bolts have been financed by Aris and the local authorities. Possibly, the new crag "Arcadia" will be included in the new topo for Leonidio that will be released later this autumn.

In regards Kalymno new routes have been opened lately and Heroes is a new big sector above Skalia. Aris says that although 80 % of the hotels and restaurants are open, there are like 20 - 30 % as many climbers as normal, mainly from Greece and Italy,

"We need to remain vigilant, but no talk of generalized lockdowns or anything like that. Climbers are just as welcoming as always, just they should take precautions. Indeed masks are required everywhere indoors. The staff at restaurants wear masks even outdoors."

Seta ibรฉrica 9a+ by Alex Garriga
Alex Garriga, has done his second 9a+ in 2020, Seta ibรฉrica in Cuenca which Jorge Diaz-Rullo put up last year. (c) Alfonso Martinez

"It is a link-up of the hardest part of Seta negra (8c+) and the hardest part of Circo Iberico (9a/+). There is also a resistance traverse for connecting them."

Isla de Encantada 8B flash by Will Bosi
William Bosi, who did his second 8C two weeks ago, has done his first 8B flash, Isla de Encanta in Trowbarrow quarry. (c) Band of Birds. (Thankfully it turns out our desire for funky lighting didn't seem to bother Will's ability to climb really hard problems really quickly).

โ€Isla de Encanta has been one of the lines which has caught my eye since I was a kid. When stopping off at Trowbarrow on my way back from Edinburgh, I was keen to give it a go. I waited until night for the best conditions and everything fell perfectly into place first time. It was a really short stay here but I am keen to come back up to the Lakes and explore some more areas soon!

It is a documentary film that will stay online next Monday from 9 to 24:00 Pm (Italy time) on the Ferrino website

Mina Markovic in a new muscular 9a shape - Picture gallery
Mina Markovic has been one of the best competition climbers during the last 15 years. In between 2010 - 2015, she had her peak having won 23 World Cups, including two in bouldering. During the last years, she has been studying psychology and biopsychology, which created interest and passion into understanding the consequences of low energy availability. A report of this knowledge in regards health prevention has been published, acknowledging and detecting low ea and disordered eating in sport, including climbing.

This work will soon be possible to access on her IG profile ๐Ÿ˜‹ @miiiinam_psychilogy) as well as invitations for some webinars, workshops and other discussions around this topics in sport). The plan is to follow up and possibly give some further recommendations. (on biopsychology, nutritional psychology and mental health prevention in sport.

During the last season, she started to get some 'random' health issues. No 'real reason' was found but she was advised to gain some weight.

"After a while, it turned out, that my body was more than thankful to me for this step. ๐Ÿ™‡โ€โ™€๏ธ, my recovery and training gains become notable. But moreover, what means to me more, I feel free, relaxed and psyched for what life is offering to me. Enjoy all the special moment(s) and smile a lot on every single day! ๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿ‘Œ๐Ÿคฃ I would (maybe) prefer not to discuss my weight as I want to avoid those 'numbers' maybe to be taken into the wrong direction by some (especially young) climbers and triggers for some people, to actually achieve this weight ...which I believe is not best approach. But, I can easily mention, that I am at least up for about 4 kg since my comp shape. Climbing (maybe) better and stronger than ever ๐Ÿ˜‹." More thoughts on her Insta.

This summer she has done two 9a's, Halupca 1979 and Waterworld (c) Luka Fonda. The pictures show her new more muscular shape. It should be mentioned that Urska Repusic, also from Slovenia, who won the Euro Boulder Championship last year, has just recently come forward with eating disorder thoughts on her Insta.

James Webb has logged his first routes since he did Dreamcatcher 9a back in 2018; three 8c's and Bad Girls Club 9a (8c+) in Wicked Cave. "Maybe 8C+? Felt pretty hard to me but then again, I'm not much for endurance routes. Rad line. Props to Joe for the vision and Matty for the FA."

"Jimmy" has been one of the leading boulderers the last ten years having done 292 boulders 8B and harder, out of which 14 flashes.