Henning Wang reports on Insta as well as in 8a comments from the scene up in Flatanger having witnessed the one hour ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi.

"You climb some hard moves for maybe a minute at most, then stand around in a kneebar or some other rest for 5-10 minutes, then repeat. The hardest moves are at the very start, then it gradually gets easier with some boulders thrown in here and there. The part about needing to keep it together for those bursts of climbing is true tho, and linking it all together in one attempt for sure is a mental challenge.

Close to the top he climbed into some sidepulls and suddenly seemed unsure of himself, having climbed into something that didn't look possible to reverse, the crowd was buzing. Was this it? Was he sweating like the rest of us and struggling to hold some shitty crimp? Would he take the hearthbreaker fall so close to the chains? But then he composed himself and made a full on dyno sideways. The cave went completely silent. I can't imagine a more gripped crowd in any world cup, and when he not long after clipped the chains the cheer was genuine and loud. Inspired and super psyched we then all went back to our own projects. And... failed miserably because conditions were still terrible 😂😂"

Enrique Gallardo has done Ali Hulk Extension which was the original 9a+ line Dani Andrada opened in the Ali Baba cave in Rodellar in 2007.

"When Dani made it, it was for sure 9a +. Now new methods have come out, I think the correct thing would be 9a/a+. But it is just my opinion. When Dani made it, there were no knee pads, which changes a bit like it is now. My process was faster than I expected. A great motivation for the following projects."

It should be mentioned that now there exist also a "total" extra extension but still graded 9a+. Furthermore, last year Enrique did another variation start that ticks in as 9a which could explain why he did it so fast. (c) Javi Pec

Advertorial: This summer was different. Full of uncertainties, slowed down for some. Stressful and restless for others. Perhaps it was also a time for pausing and contemplating. Many attributes can be applied to our current reality, and depending on the location and individual situation, the current pandemic and the associated crisis have had very different effects.

Many things that used to be easy have become more difficult: moving around freely, meeting friends, hanging out together, travelling. As a result, many of the most famous travel destinations seem to suddenly have moved out of reach, air travel has become impossible or unaffordable. Many of us climbers are looking for quiet areas, nature, and open spaces where you can avoid the usual crowds of popular destinations.

Secret tip for the autumn
While South Tyrol and especially the Dolomite area is highly regarded by many visitors, especially in summer and winter, autumn is a great time to have the most popular spots for yourself. The Dolomites are world-famous among alpine climbers, but South Tyrol also offers much more: the sport climbing possibilities are also surprisingly varied here.

Although South Tyrol is not yet as well known among sport climbers as, for example, the neighboring Tyrol or the nearby Arco, you will find numerous top areas here, which are anything but crowded. In addition, not only the Dolomite region in the southern and eastern part of the country offers wonderful, compact rock. Due to the unique geological conditions, a wide variety of rock formations and rock types can be found here. South Tyrol is characterized by various mountain ranges, has steep peaks, gentle valleys and meadows with beautiful landscapes. All over the country you can find great rock faces for sport climbing, on limestone, granite and gneiss as well as on porphyry and even marble.

Something for every taste
Thanks to the tireless work of the creative local developers, well-equipped areas have been established and are constantly growing, offering a wide range of difficulty levels. Some top crags for ambitious climbers, who climb in grade 6b to 8a, are for example Stohlwond in the north, Eiszeit (Passo Gardena), Traumpfeiler (Passo Sella), Rienztal and Landro Höhlen in the Dolomites area, Martell and Latsch in the west, Unterinn Matz and Morderplottn in the south.

During the autumn vacations, families also get their money's worth, as there are many crags that are easily accessible via short approaches and offer a safe, quiet environment and a particularly comfortable wall base. These include, for example, the Franzensfeste/Fortezza and Nock climbing crags in the northern and central part of the region, Tisner Auen, Juval, Marchegghof, Burgstollknott, Stuls to the south and west, Steinerne Stadt on Passo Sella, and Zörhof and Brüggele/Braies in the east.

You can view the topos for the above mentioned areas in the Vertical-Life app for free. Just download the app, register and enter the code CLIMBSUEDTIROL.

Because South Tyrol has a lot more to offer besides rock and nature, a visit is worthwhile especially in autumn: The colorful landscape invites you to go hiking or mountain biking, cities, museums and sights are pleasantly quiet right now, and the traditional Törggelen and other culinary highlights should not be missed. Autumn can be a time to enjoy the warming rays of the sun and the golden light, to spend time with friends and family and to fully relax while climbing. Find out more about South Tyrol here. Photo: Pauli Trenkwalder

Stefano Ghisolfi has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's Change 9b+ in Flatanger. Previously, the Italian has done one 9b+ and six 9b's. (c) Sara Grippo
"The battle is over, unexpectedly soon, a mental and physical fight that took me more than one month and two trips to Flatanger, it ended today with a bloodbath lasted more than one hour of climbing to complete the 185 moves and 55m of Change, the very first 9b+ in the world, bolted and climbed only by Adam Ondra in 2012. I feel relieved, tired and happy, and I enjoyed everything it came with this amazing (and frustrating) journey.

It is a King Line, as many routes in the Cave, and it's one of the longest I think. The moves are amazing and the rock too, especially the last meters that are the easiest of the route, the rock is amazing."

Did you do any specific training or replicas back home in Arco prior to your second trip?
I didn't have time. We just stayed one week at home between the two trips. Before the first trip I did some specific training for my shoulders because from Adam's video it was easy to understand that the shoulders were going to hurt.

How much help did you get from Ondra’s video? Did you invent any new beta?
Adam's video helped me with some beta but I found most of the beta on my own because usually Adam's betas don't fit my style. Yes, better beta for me. I did a swing instead of putting high both feet as Adam did, I shared some video to compare my beta with Adam.

Dave Graham, one of the leading rock climbers the last twenty years, reports on Insta, including a video, that he has done the second ascent of Jorge Diaz-Rullo's Fin de Ali Extension Sit Start 9a+ in Rodellar. "Basically if you see the cave, this is a left entrance to the ending. This adds 18 moves to the big undercling, and if you do Ali Hulk stand it adds about the same, but much easier climbing in my opinion."

Dave says he has started to work a new sit start more to the right. "The new low start seems to add around 8A+ into the 8B, with zero rest. The crux is the transition. Let's see if I can find better beta but it's seem pretty pure. And further, to the right, there are two boulders which seem around 8C.

The Ali Hulk 9b that Laura Rogora and Dani Fuertes did starts to the right in the cave. "What she did is 9b. No knee pads man...Crazzzzzy, 37 degrees. Nearly impossible for anyone hahahaha."

So to sum up. The Ali Hulk 9b that sit starts to the right in the cave begins with an 8B boulder followed with an 8c+ route. There are three harder entries that sit starts in the middle of the cave with project grades up to 8C. Adding an 8C boulder instead of the original 8B, would potentially make it possible to climb at least 9b+ in the Ali Baba cave!

Alizee Dufraisse is working her way out in the Ali Baba cave in Rodellar having done two 8c+; Fin de Ali Hulk extension and Hulk extensión total. Now she could add the sit start creating a 9a+ or 9b depending where she finish. The 33-year-old, who graduated from the University as well as got married to Dave Graham in 2020, is also projecting Autoengano 9a, in the picture (c) Guillermo Dominguez

The former French Champion in pole vault (4.35) must be considered as one of the best female climbers in the world as she previously has done two 9a's and and onsighted 14 routes 8a+ and harder. In bouldering she has done four 8B's. On the competition scene, she has won Arco Rock Masters as well as having been standing on an IFSC podium. "I had a little break of Autoengano 9a (like going once a week) since 2/3 weeks. As I tried it all summer in the heat I was feeling I needed to change a little. Also as we plan to go to Siurana after and Autoengono is a huge roof without crimps and not really resistant, I use the Ali baba cave like training as there are more crimps and the combinations are resistant. For the mind it s good too because you can try harder and harder links but with success all the time. From now I will try Autoengano more as I spent a lot of time on it all summer 😅 it is a tricky one for me to! "

Online coaching and training programs are getting more popular. In the same way, more kids attend courses where coaches tell them how to climb. I am sure this suites many and especially in the short run it can be motivating and productive.

On the other hand, for many this is probably just counter productive in the long run. Imagine Chris Sharma 13-years-old being told to certain weekdays just climb specific circuits etc in different colours run by a clock. Adam Ondra did not follow a training program or had a coach until he was 19-years-old! In fact, most of the best rock climbers have not followed any specific training regime. They have just been driving by the challenge to solve moves and climbs.

Back in the old days, all boulder gyms had spray walls with rather small holds where the climbers used their creativity to set new problems. Now this is replaced with larger colorful holds nicely placed to create delightful moves.

Again, this is good for the general mainstream and the gyms are making money from it. This structured way is also of course good for many kids and the ones who mainly focus on competitions. However, if your goal is to improve as a rock climber you have to also include technical drills indoor and use your creativity to challenge yourself by also setting up your own climbs indoors. Alternatively, do some easier ones by using just one foot or hand or leave out different holds.

You can also challenge yourself by combining two or more colors or add a color for the feet. There are endless of recipes to improve in a gym as long as you work on your creativity, which will make you to better adopt to rock climbing outdoors :)

Daniel Woods reports on Insta that he has done Giuliano Cameroni's Blade Runner 8C in RMNP. (c) Daniel Gajda

"Since global warming has fucked up the seasons, (unusually hot weather remains in the high country at the end of sept!) I had to wait until 10 pm at night just to have a chance. Speaking of global warming this is also a friendly reminder to all my US friends to vote Biden/Harris into office and remove our current clown 🤡."

The 31-year-old, who is #2 in the 8a annual ranking game, has in total done 25 8C's and 6 8C+', which is most in the world. In 2010, he won the Boulder World Cup in Vail and he has also won the USA Nationals nine times in a row.

Karoline Sinnhuber, a former competition climber who has done almost 100 boulders 8A to 8B, has done her second 8b+, Minas Tirith in Ötztal. (c) Fabian Leu

"Amazing route! The real crux wasn't the crux for me... I was fighting hard against pumped forearms on the way to the rescue arete :-D. Way too hot for hard bouldering and I am still looking for a new boulder project 🤔 but it seems like winter says hello the next few days :D"

Advertorial: “My favourite route in Noesslach! It’s impeccable face climbing. It’s awesome, varied movement on a beautiful and polished piece of blank white stone with a cool mix of crimps, cracks, ledges and ribs.” (Barbara Bacher)

• Climbing Area: Noesslach, Ötztal Valley
• Grade: 6b
• Length: 20 meters
• First Ascensionist: Christoph Rimml (1985)

This natural phenomenon, a puzzling streak of blank white stone amidst the otherwise grey granite wall, marks what is probably the most beautiful route in the Noesslach Climbing Area. With plenty of crimps, cracks, ledges and ribs, this Ötztal classic forces almost nonstop hand jams and good climbing technique. Although in the comparably low 6b range, this climb is special because of its concentration. A lot of skill for climbing the “White Giant” is thinking creatively and staying focused till you clip the chains. The rock is southwest to west-facing, which makes it a perfect climbing spot from spring to late fall. Video presentation