29 September 2020

Wang reports about bad conditions and close call for Ghisolfi's 9b+

Henning Wang reports on Insta as well as in 8a comments from the scene up in Flatanger having witnessed the one hour ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi.

"You climb some hard moves for maybe a minute at most, then stand around in a kneebar or some other rest for 5-10 minutes, then repeat. The hardest moves are at the very start, then it gradually gets easier with some boulders thrown in here and there. The part about needing to keep it together for those bursts of climbing is true tho, and linking it all together in one attempt for sure is a mental challenge.

Close to the top he climbed into some sidepulls and suddenly seemed unsure of himself, having climbed into something that didn't look possible to reverse, the crowd was buzing. Was this it? Was he sweating like the rest of us and struggling to hold some shitty crimp? Would he take the hearthbreaker fall so close to the chains? But then he composed himself and made a full on dyno sideways. The cave went completely silent. I can't imagine a more gripped crowd in any world cup, and when he not long after clipped the chains the cheer was genuine and loud. Inspired and super psyched we then all went back to our own projects. And... failed miserably because conditions were still terrible 😂😂"
1 comment
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Favorites
Will Bosi claims the first repeat of Burden of Dreams (9A)

William Bosi has done the coveted second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams (9A) in Lappnor, Finland, confirming the 9A grade. It was put up as the …

Katie Lamb makes history

Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…

"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …